Restore a Weedy Lawn

WORK A LITTLE, WATER A LOT—AND THEN ENJOY!

Is your yard pathetic? Reseed in a weekend, then just water and wait.

Reseeding is a job you can do in a weekend if you have an average-size lawn. You’ll have to wrestle home a couple of engine-powered rental machines. And once your work is done, be prepared to keep the soil damp with daily watering for the first month or so. It’s the key to a successful reseeding job.

Before you establish this beautiful new lawn, be sure to do any hardscaping or landscaping—such as retaining walls, patios or tree planting—that might tear up your new lawn with heavy equipment or excavating. If an inground irrigation system is in your future, install that beforehand as well. You’ll avoid damaging your new lawn by trenching in irrigation lines and sprinkler heads, and you’ll have the benefit of using the system to water the new grass. Flag the sprinkler heads to avoid hitting them with the aerator or power rake.

Get better grass

Grass has improved dramatically in recent years, with varieties bred for better color, thicker turf or shade and drought tolerance. So reseeding doesn’t just fill in the bare spots; it also improves the mix of grass varieties in your lawn.

Save the existing grass?

The steps we show here are for a lawn that’s at least 50 percent grass. Take a close look at the lawn. If you see plenty of healthy grass among the weeds or large areas of good grass throughout the lawn, you can save the existing grass and fill in the rest of the lawn by planting new seed. That calls for applying a broadleaf herbicide, which kills the

weeds but doesn’t harm the grass. It should be applied three to four weeks before starting the project. A hose-end sprayer with concentrated weed killer is the fastest, easiest application method (Photo 1). But if your lawn is hopelessly bare or completely covered with weeds, it’s best to go “scorched earth” and kill all the vegetation with a nonselective herbicide like Roundup and start over. If after two weeks, some weeds reappear, apply another treatment to the survivors.

Late summer or early fall is best

Timing is important when it comes to lawn reseeding. When summer heat begins to wane, it’s much easier to stay on track with watering newly sprouted grass shoots because they won’t be stressed by high heat and humidity. Plus, there will be plenty of time for the grass to get established before winter.

You’ll be far less successful planting and growing grass from seed during spring and summer. If you must seed in the spring, wait for soil temperatures to reach a consistent 55 degrees F. Also watch for weeds! They can outcompete new grass seedlings as they both vie for space, sunlight and water. Using a seedfriendly herbicide is recommended in the spring or early summer if you have to treat emerging weeds after reseeding. And when choosing the starter fertilizer, look for one containing siduron or mesotrione preemergent herbicide, or be prepared for disappointing results.

Reseeding can be a crapshoot. A big thunderstorm could wash your seed away. So pay attention to longrange forecasts and plan accordingly. That’s especially true if your yard is sloped enough that it doesn’t take much water to wash away seed. Before you start the soil prep, set your mower to its lowest setting and give your yard a buzz cut.

Rent an aerator and power rake

There’s no reasonable way to prep the soil by hand, so you should plan to rent an aerator (Photo 2) and power rake (also called a dethatcher;

for about $100 each per day. Lifting them into and out of the pickup will require a helper, but operating them doesn’t require an athlete’s physique. The worst part is that you’ll be marching around the yard following the self-propelled machines for many, many passes. Unless you have a small yard, plan to aerate it in one day, then return the aerator the following day and rent the power rake to finish the heavy work. Day two would also include planting, raking and fertilizing.

Aerate like crazy

Aerators pull small plugs from the soil and deposit them on the surface (Photo 2). That loosens the soil, making it easier for roots to grow deep into the soil. The plugs will be pulverized in the next step, power raking (Photo 3), to form loose soil for the seeds to germinate in. The holes you create will allow fertilizer and water to penetrate deep into the soil for better retention. When you’re using a core aerator to prepare soil for reseeding, the key is to make at least three passes—more if you have the stamina—each from a different direction.

Next step: power raking

Power rakes spin metal tines at high speed to scarify and loosen the soil as well as break up the aerator plugs. They also lift thatch from your lawn. Go over the whole lawn from two directions, then rake up and remove dead debris if it completely covers the ground and would prevent seed from contacting the soil.

Choose the right spreader

In most cases, a broadcast spreader (Photo 5) is the best choice because it evenly distributes seed or fertilizer for thorough coverage. If you have a large yard bordered by flower beds or vegetable gardens, use a drop spreader (Photo 4) to spread the seed near them before doing the majority of the yard with a broadcast spreader. Since the seed drops straight down, you won’t be casting grass seed in your gardens by mistake.

Whichever spreader you use, set the feed rate at half (or less) of the recommended rate. When using the drop spreader around border gardens, overlap subsequent passes slightly for more even seed distribution. But when using the broadcast or drop spreader for the open areas, make two or more passes from different directions for even distribution. This is especially true when you’re using a drop spreader so you don’t wind up with a striped lawn. If you don’t own a broadcast spreader, buy one—don’t rent it. You’ll need it to keep your new lawn in tip-top shape after it’s established.

Sow the seed

Applying too much or too little seed is a mistake. Here is a little hands-and-knees observation to let you know if you’re applying the right amount. Picture a square inch of area on a freshly seeded area and count the seeds. Strive to

get about 15 or so seeds per square inch. After spreading, lightly rake the seed into the soil for good contact. It doesn’t have to be completely buried. Some of the seed can still be showing.

Fertilize with a starter

Fertilizers used to contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. But due to water pollution concerns, many states no longer allow phosphorus in ordinary lawn fertilizers. However, phosphorus is very helpful for root development, so it’s important for starting new seed. At the garden center, look for fertilizer labeled “Starter” or “New Lawns.” Your state may allow its sale for establishing new lawns or in gardens.

Water, water, water

An oscillating sprinkler works best for getting your lawn started. It covers a large area with even, light streams of water to prevent washing away seed. You’ll only need to water for about 20 minutes at a time depending on your soil type. Unless it rains, you’ll likely need to water at least twice daily. On hot or windy days, you may need to water even more frequently.

Closely monitor the soil to keep it damp, not saturated. Strive to maintain soil dampness to a depth of about 1/2 in. You’ll need to do this for at least three weeks. If you’re not diligent, you may throw away all your hard work and money. One dry, hot sunny day is all it takes to wipe out a new lawn. A $25 timer for your hose, available at any garden or home center, might be helpful if you can’t be home to water as needed. After the grass is 3 in. high, you can start mowing and begin a normal watering regime.