How to build it

The Family Handyman - - BEST PRO TIPS -

Mea­sure the width and depth of your cabi­net ( Photo 1), then cut two 1/4-in. ply­wood pan­els (A) to fit. If you have a dou­ble-wide cabi­net (like ours), cut the ply­wood so it ex­tends at least halfway beyond the ver­ti­cal cen­ter stile. Tip: If you have a dou­ble cabi­net, you can cut the ply­wood ex­tra wide, in­stall the di­vider strips, then cut the ply­wood to fi­nal width so you wind up with full-width di­vider strips on both ends.

Cut the slats (B) 1/2 in. shorter than the ply­wood and use a san­der or sand­pa­per to lightly round the ends. Glue and nail the di­vider slats into place ( Photo 2), us­ing a scrap piece of 1/4-in. ply­wood and an old credit card as spac­ers; this ex­tra wig­gle room will al­low you to slide the di­vider pan­els in and out more eas­ily. To pre­vent brad nails from pok­ing through the ply­wood, ad­just the depth set­ting of your nailer and drive brads at a slight an­gle.

Build the top frame (C and D) the ex­act size of your ply­wood pan­els ( Photo 3) and predrill the mount­ing holes on each end. In­stall this frame with the bot­tom edge even with the top of the cabi­net open­ing ( Photo 4).

Screw the front in place first. Be­fore screw­ing the back, make sure it’s at ex­actly the same height as the front.

At­tach the pan­els (A) to the bot­tom of the cabi­net ( Photo 5) and to the up­per frame. Mea­sure be­tween the pan­els to de­ter­mine the height of the dividers (E). Cut one di­vider panel to size ( Photo 6) then “test slide” it through sev­eral of the open­ings. If all the open­ings are equal, use your first di­vider panel as a tem­plate for cut­ting out the re­main­ing ones ( Photo 6). We cre­ated a 2-in. in­dent on the end of the di­vider pan­els to al­low eas­ier ac­cess to the trays and other items stored be­tween them.

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