3. If the pipes are old, re­place the whole works

The Family Handyman - - BEST PRO TIPS -

Some leaks can’t be stopped with straight­en­ing or tight­en­ing. Stripped nuts won’t tighten and old wash­ers won’t seal be­cause they’re stiff and dis­torted. You could get new nuts, wash­ers or drain parts. Since plas­tic pipe is so in­ex­pen­sive and easy to in­stall, the smart, re­li­able fix is a whole new drain as­sem­bly. You can buy every­thing you need at home cen­ters for about $20. Kits for side out­let as­sem­blies (like the one shown here) or cen­ter out­let as­sem­blies (where the trap is be­neath the cen­ter of the sink) con­tain most of the es­sen­tial parts.

But you might also need:

Long tail­pieces (Photo 1). The tail­pieces that come with kits are of­ten only a cou­ple of inches long.

A trap arm ex­ten­der (Photo 2).

The arm that comes with the kit may not reach the drain­pipe that pro­trudes from the wall.

A dish­washer wye that has a con­nec­tion for your dish­washer hose. A dis­poser kit that al­lows the waste arm to con­nect to a garbage dis­poser.

Strainer Rub­ber washerCard­board washer Lock­nutTail­piece washer Tail­piece Tail­piece washer Slip nut At­tach the tail­piece to the bas­ket strainer, but don’t fully tighten it yet; you’ll have to re­move and cut it later. Waste arm Tail­piece Trap arm Ex­ten­der 1-1/2" adapter Slide the trap arm into the adapter. Then at­tach the trap and slide the arm in or out to po­si­tion the trap di­rectly un­der the tail­piece. You may need to cut the arm or add an ex­ten­der. Waste tee 1-1/2" Tail­piece Trap Hold the waste tee along­side the tail­piece about 1-1/2 in. be­low the top of the trap. Mark the tail­piece 1/2 in. be­low the top of the tee. Cut both tail­pieces to the same length and in­stall them.

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