DRESS IT UP
EASE THE EDGES: Dull the sharp edges with sandpaper or a router. I used a 1/8-in. round-over bit.
FINISH IT WITH OIL: Oil finishes are best for this project because they’re easy to renew. When the finish wears, just wipe on a fresh coat of oil. There are oils intended for cutting boards, but I used mineral oil from the drugstore (after sanding the entire cutting board with 80- and 120-grit).
MATERIALS
3/4-in.-thick boards at least 22 in. long and a total width of at least 8-1/4 in. for each species. The cost for walnut and maple is about $20 per cutting board.
2x6 x 6 ft. of pine
(for cauls)
Six 3/8-in. x 5-in. lag screws and washers
1/8-in. MDF
(for templates)
n Waterproof wood glue such as Elmer’s Wood Glue Max or Titebond III
Sanding supplies Mineral oil, duct tape, double-sided tape.
ADD PERFECT CURVES
Mark curves onto the cutting board by tracing around a template made from 1/8-in MDF. Rough-cut the shape with a band saw or jigsaw, keeping the blade about 1/8 in. from the line. Then fasten the template to the cutting board with double-sided tape. A pattern bit guided by the template produces perfect curves. I glued a scrap of 1/4-in. plywood to the underside of this template and to the juice groove template. That elevates the template and allows the bearing to make full contact with it.
CUT A JUICE GROOVE
I cut a juice groove using a template (2-1/4 in. smaller than the one shown above) and a 3/4-in. core box router bit with a bearing ($40). A smaller bit would also work. Most core box bits don’t include a bearing, so you may need to add one or mount a rub collar on your router base.