Decorative Shutters
The size, style and color you want—for less than the cost of plastic shutters
Why go with plastic? Make your own custom shutters for less.
My hunt for manufactured decorative shutters got me nowhere—I found only very limited selections of sizes, styles and colors. Then it occurred to me that it would be simpler and quicker to build my own. Cheaper, too. My DIY shutters cost less than most of the plastic versions I saw.
My design is simple, just four 1x4 boards joined by a cleat. The details are what make the shutters special. I’ll show you how to cut notches in the boards to create attractive shadow lines and how to reduce the thickness of the cleats for a refined appearance.
Measure, then buy materials
Before going to the home center, measure your windows to determine the height of the shutters so you can figure out the length of boards you need. For the most authentic look, measure from the top of the window frame (not including the window trim) to the top of the windowsill and build your shutters this height. Use these measurements to make your lumber list. Each pair of shutters requires eight 1x4 boards and an additional 5 ft. of 1x4 for the cleats.
I chose Boral TruExterior trim boards for my shutters (see p. 14 for more information). Inexpensive pine boards would also be fine, but you’d have to be vigilant about repainting them in the future. Any moisture entering the wood would quickly lead to rot. If you prefer a rustic look, cedar with a transparent or semitransparent stain would be a good choice. Whatever you choose, be careful to pick out straight boards with undamaged edges.
Mounting the shutters
I used 2-in. exterior trim-head screws to mount my shutters (one screw in each corner). This approach will work with most wood, vinyl, aluminum and steel siding. If you have a stucco or masonry exterior, you’ll have to mark the screw hole locations on the exterior and drill holes to accept plastic masonry anchors. Light-duty anchors are fine for this job. For more information, search for “masonry anchors” at familyhandyman.com.
1 CUT BOARDS TO LENGTH Every pair of shutters requires eight boards of the same length. For fast, accurate cuts, use a stop block. Screw the block to a board that’s about 6 in. longer than your shutter height. Clamp the board to your miter saw fence so that the distance from the blade to the block equals the shutter height. Then simply slide the end of the board against the block and make your cut. 2 NOTCH THE BOARDS Six of the eight boards are notched along one edge, creating an attractive shadow line between the boards. To cut the notches, clamp a sacrificial board to your table saw fence. Position the board against the blade and set the blade height at 1/4 in. Run the boards across the blade, move the fence slightly away from the blade and then run them across a second time to get a notch 1/8 in. wide. 3 RESAW THE CLEATS You could use 3/4-in.-thick stock for the cleats, but I think thinner cleats look better. To “resaw” the cleats to 1/2 in. thick, set the blade height at 1-7/8 in. and the fence 1/2 in. from the blade. With the board on edge, make the first cut. Then turn the board over and make the second cut. 4 ASSEMBLE THE SHUTTERS Arrange the boards on your workbench and clamp them together. Measure the width across the four boards and cut cleats to that length. Then, using one of the cleats as a guide, draw lines 3-1/2 in. from each end. Apply waterproof wood glue to the cleats and fasten them with 1-in. nails. Let the shutters rest for at least an hour before painting or finishing.