Modern Concrete Patio
High style on a low budget
This stunning patio is low maintenance too— and easier to make than a big slab.
When we were choosing a patio design, we came across a patio much like this one but made with big, gray porcelain pavers. We all agreed it was exactly what we wanted. Then we checked the price of porcelain— over $5,000! We opted for concrete instead. This design is not only stylish but also perfect for someone with limited concrete experience. It’s much more forgiving than a big, continuous slab. On a large slab, a mistake in the form or in finishing can lead to depressions and water puddles. And inadequate base prep can lead to cracking. This segmented design makes those problems much less likely. To complete the look, you add decorative rock between the pavers. Are you ready to take it on? If you have help, you can build this patio in a weekend!
1 BUILD THE FORMS
Assemble the form in sections. Stake the forms in place using 1-by stakes between the 2x4s. The stakes created a gap to get the width we wanted, and we also used them to level the forms.
2 LEVEL THE FORM
Lift and adjust the form to make it level, then screw it to the stakes. Once you’re satisfied, cut the stakes flush with the top of the form. Oops! We left the gaps open between the 2x4s, realizing too late that they’d fill with concrete. This made it difficult to remove the forms after the concrete was set. To avoid that, we recommend covering the gaps with duct tape before pouring. Also, fill in sand up to the bottom of each individual paver space, so the concrete doesn’t flow underneath the form, filling the gaps from below.
3 SET AND TIE REBAR Lay a rebar grid in each cavity, tying the intersections. Set the rebar grids on specially made “chairs” to elevate the rebar into the slabs. 4 OIL THE FORMS Spray or brush the forms with kerosene, diesel fuel or cooking oil. This makes it easier to remove the forms after the concrete has set. 5 FILL THE FORMS Starting in the corner closest to the house, fill each form. The easiest way to do this is to hire a pump truck. The hose is heavy, but not nearly as much work or headache as trying to run a wheelbarrow over the grid. We used fiber-reinforced concrete to ensure these slabs won’t crack.
6 SCREED THE CONCRETE
Have a helper screed each section after it’s filled. Our patio is large, and pouring the forms progresses quickly, so a crew of four is best to perform all the tasks before the concrete sets. The person doing the screeding should be limber, as they’ll likely end up crawling around on the form grid a bit no matter how well you’ve planned the process.
7 ”FLOAT” THE SURFACE
After the bleed water has disappeared, float each section with a magnesium float. Floating embeds coarse aggregate particles and smooths the surface without sealing it. Before our concrete set up too much, we measured for the post anchors and installed them for the pergola.
8 ROUND THE EDGES
Once the concrete begins to stiffen, it’s time to start rounding over the edges of the pavers with a special edging tool. You’ll need to move quickly—there’s a lot of edging to be done!
9 TROWEL THE CONCRETE
When you’re able to kneel on knee boards on the concrete and only leave a 1/8-in.- to 1/4-in.-deep indentation, start troweling the pavers. Troweling makes the surface hard, dense and smooth. Put a little “spring” in the trowel to increase that effect and feather out the transition created by the edger.
10 REMOVE THE FORMS
After the concrete has cured, back the screws out of the leveling stakes and start prying out the forms. They should come out fairly easily. If you need to use a hammer and pry bar, take care not to damage the concrete. If the forms are stubborn, run a reciprocating saw around each paver before pulling the forms.
11 FILL THE GAPS
Install landscape edging around the patio perimeter. We used Permaloc ProSlide Commercial Grade Landscape Edging ($2 to $5 per linear foot). Using a shovel and broom, fill the spaces between the pavers with your choice of gravel or decorative rock.