KAMADO GRILL THE CLAY POT COOKER
These grills have been around for thousands of years, but only since WWII has the Japanese kamado been grilling deliciousness in the United States. The kamado grill’s ceramic outer shell and inner parts retain heat far better than a steel grill. This results in a slower, more efficient and controlled burn. Their popularity coincided with the rise of “foodie” culture, and they’re now available at most home centers and hardware stores. I spoke with kamado guru “Chef Eric” Gephart to glean some knowledge about this archaeologic treasure of a grill.
Many say a kamado heats up slower than other charcoal or gas grills. Chef Eric says that if you have quality lump charcoal and the right approach, you’ll have a usable fire in 10 to 15 minutes. Once you have flame, close the lid and adjust the draft door and control cap to find your desired temp. This is a crucial point of control with a kamado. If you leave that cap and draft door open too long, the draft will stoke the coals and the temp can quickly climb as high as 750 degrees F. A kamado is so efficient at holding heat that it’s difficult to drop temperature quickly. If you want a slow, low-temp cook, increase the temperature gradually. The upside of the kamado’s quick flash heat is that you can slow-smoke food and then finish it with a quick sear by opening up both vents and even the lid for immediate, high heat.
The most popular kamado grills are 18 to 22 in. in diameter, but they come as large as 42. Chef Eric said all grill sizes perform the same way. The only difference is what he calls “grill estate.” The more grill space you have, the greater the options for different cook zones, or “heat signatures,” as he referred to them. Banking the charcoal to one side creates separate areas of direct and indirect heat, allowing you to cook different foods simultaneously. Larger grills often have secondary grates or racks for even more “grill estate.” Combine this with a rotisserie or other accessories and “you can have a culinary jungle gym,” says Chef Eric.
Chef Eric sees more and more culinary aspirants drawn to kamado grills. Chef Eric has used a kamado grill to execute everything from Bretagne-style apple cake to triple cream beer bratwurst and, yes, of course, some serious BBQ brisket.
“It’s a primal way to cook, which is a beautiful thing these days. You’re in the moment, you’re interacting with the charcoal, you’re building that fire, you’re present. It’s about mindfulness and, hopefully, not thinking about your cell phone.”
CHEF ERIC
Other than the lid, a kamado grill has two moving parts: the lower draft door, and the top control or chimney cap. Chef Eric sees the draft door as a heat pump, sucking in ambient air to create convection. Closing that draft door is like putting on the brakes; this is where you execute big temperature changes. The chimney cap regulates smaller changes in temperature. The cooking grate sits on the fire ring above the firebox, also ceramic. An optional heat deflector aids indirect cooking. All these ceramic components retain temperature for an even distribution of heat.