WINDOW TRIM
HOW TO ACHIEVE TRIMLESS WINDOW STYLE
Installing wood trim around windows can be expensive and time-consuming. Drywall returns fix that. Most windows are installed using wood jamb extensions to finish the rough openings; these pieces extend the window jambs to the interior wall. Window trim then covers the jamb extensions, providing the finished and trimmed look we all know. In the Getaway, we used drywall in place of jamb extensions and wood trim. With this drywall return method, our windows have a modern, trimless look. It required a bit more drywall work, but we saved time and money by eliminating wood trim and its finish carpentry.
1 PREP THE ROUGH OPENING
Not all windows are perfectly centered in their rough openings. To center a window, you may have to shim the sides, top or bottom of the opening. You want an even reveal around the inside perimeter of the opening between the window and the drywall return. You can buy shims or make your own by ripping different thicknesses of wood. Attach the shims to the rough opening with staples or finish nails. Before finishing, always insulate around the window with spray foam or fiberglass insulation.
2 MEASURE & SCORE
Measure the depth of the window return from the inside face of the window to the wall’s outer surface. Subtract 1/4 in. Then, measure the height of the side returns from the top to the bottom of the rough opening. Next, measure the length of the top return from left to right and subtract the thickness of both pieces of drywall. Transfer all these measurements to the drywall sheet. Score the drywall along your line using a utility knife and straightedge. You need to cut through only the paper on the first pass.
3 CUT THE TOP RETURN
Place a 2x4 beneath that scored line or let the sheet of drywall overhang your work table past the line. Push the board down away from you, and the drywall will snap on the line you cut. Now cut through the back side of the drywall paper along the crease.
4 ATTACH RETURNS
A drywall screw gun helps to set your screws at just the right depth. Drywall screw heads should be below the surface but shouldn’t break through the paper. We used a regular drill/driver, but be careful to not drive screws in too deep. Start with the drywall return on the underside of the top window return, keeping it 1/4 in. from the window and flush with the wall. Then place the two sides.
CUT & ATTACH INSIDE CORNER BEAD
Cut two of the side tear-away corner beads to length—the same length as the drywall you cut. Dry-fit the pieces, and trim to length. Cut the top and bottom tear-away corner beads so they butt against the two side beads. Trim back the tear-away strips just enough so they don’t interfere with the side strips. Attach the two side corner beads first, then the top and bottom ones. Secure all four corner beads to the drywall with spray adhesive and 3/8-in. staples as shown.
6 CUT & ATTACH OUTSIDE CORNER BEAD
Cutting the outside corner bead is similar to making a picture frame, with 45-degree angles on all four corners. Attach the outside corner beads with spray adhesive and staples. If you’re removing trim, you’ll need to fill the gap between the window return and the drywall before attaching the outside corner bead.
7 7 MUDDING
With a 9-in. knife, apply a skim coat of joint compound over the corner bead around the outer edge of the whole window, feathering the joint compound out and away from the window as you go. To mud the returns, start in a corner and work your way around all four returns, using a 6-in. knife to apply a skim coat of joint compound. After the compound dries completely, use a 6-in. knife to scrape off any excess around the returns. Apply a final coat of joint compound, let dry and sand.
8 PEEL TEAR-AWAY STRIP
Now it’s time to peel the tear-away strip on the inside corner bead, leaving a clean edge and line between the drywall return and the window.
9 WINDOWSILL
A windowsill finishes the opening with a durable, easyto-clean surface. A composite or PVC material works well for this and won’t rot or warp.