AUTHENTIC, SEAMLESS BEAMS

For this project, I’m going for a real-beams look. Using a method called miter folding, I’ll transform a pair of 1x6s and a 1x8 board into a hollow beam. The miter seams will be invisible, and each beam will look like an actual solid piece. You’ll need a table saw or a track saw to pull this off, but your beams will look as if they are actually holding up the ceiling.

FASTEN CEILING CLEATS

First, locate and mark the position and direction of each ceiling joist around the edges of the ceiling. Then, avoiding ceiling fixtures, mark where the beams will be positioned. Keep their spacing even and ensure each beam will be attached to a joist. The beams can be installed across or along the ceiling joists. Next, attach 2x6 cleats to the ceiling joists where you’ll place the beams. I used a pair of 2x6 boards to wedge the cleats into position while I fastened them to the ceiling joists.

CHECK FOR FLATNESS

While you’re installing the cleats, check to see how flat the ceiling is. Hold a straightedge along the 2x6 cleat. Take note of any gaps more than 1/8 in. between the level and the ceiling. This will come in handy when you scribe and trim the beams to get a perfect fit.

CHOOSE THE RIGHT BOARDS

Begin the actual beambuilding process by choosing the material that suits your style.

HARDWOOD: Choose the straightest boards possible at a length that will span the entire room. Bowed boards will be trouble when you’re cutting and assembling. Sight down the edges and put only straight ones in your cart.

CUT THE LONG MITERS

This is the trickiest part of building seamless faux beams. Set up a table saw to make a 45-degree bevel and adjust the fence so the narrow face between the bevel cuts is at least 5-1/2 in. wide. Cut a bevel on both long edges of the 1x8 boards. Use a featherboard to keep the material against the fence and press the board to the table as you feed it through the saw. Then cut the same bevel on one edge of the 1x6 boards.

BACK-BEVEL THE TOP EDGES

The 1x6 boards will turn into the sides of the beams, and the top edge will meet the ceiling. Cutting a slight bevel on the top edge, opposite the 45-degree bevel, will help you if your ceiling is not flat. If you found a 1/8-in. or smaller gap when you checked how flat the ceiling was (in Step 2), cut a 5-degree bevel. If your ceiling has 1/4-in. or larger gaps, cut a 15-degree bevel. Cutting a steeper bevel than necessary might cause the wood to split where the screws are installed.

TAPE THE SEAMS

Arrange the three boards on sawhorses with the bevel cuts down and the points of the miters touching. Using reinforced packing tape, join the boards across the seams, then down the lengths of the seams. I sandwiched the ends of the boards with scrap offcuts and clamps to secure them; this helped keep everything together when the boards were flipped for the next step.

GLUE AND FOLD

Flip the boards over, then spread glue on the beveled edges. Titebond III glue is great when I need extended working time, and it’s easy to spread with a brush. I folded the edges of the beams up and used more packing tape to hold the tops in place while the glue dried. Don’t be afraid to use a few 18-gauge brad nails to pin the miter together at the ends.

BURNISH THE CORNERS

With the tape still on and the glue still drying, run a screwdriver shaft along each corner. This presses the corner of the miter completely closed while the glue is still wet to make a tight, invisible miter that will last. Be careful not to rip the tape as you burnish the corners.

SCRIBE IN PLACE

Once the glue is dry and the beam is sanded and stained, fit each beam into place. Hold the beam tight to the ceiling. With your pencil flat on the ceiling, run the tip along the entire length of the beam.

SAND TO THE SCRIBE

With the beams back on sawhorses, use a belt sander to sand the top edges to the scribed line. The back-beveled tops make this a quick and easy job. Instead of sanding down the entire 3/4-in. thickness, you need to remove only the point of the outside face.

INSTALL THE BEAMS

Drill pilot holes along the tops of the beams every 16 in. Then lift the beams back into place and fasten them to the cleats with trim screws. Fill the small screw holes with wood putty and touch them up with stain. The beams will look as if they’ve been holding up the ceiling since day one.

2x6 CLEAT WEDGE BOARDS FINGER-JOINTED BOARDS: Built to be straight, these are a great option if you’ll be painting your beams.

NOTE THE SIZE OF THE GAP RED OAK HARDWOOD FINGER-JOINTED BOARDS RECLAIMED LUMBER MAPLE PLYWOOD STRIPS VENEERED PLYWOOD: Perfectly straight factory edges ensure crisp corners, and strips are easy to cut and assemble. But lengths are limited. RECLAIMED LUMBER: Go this route to nail the rustic look, but expect extra work to get a straight edge. You’ll need to send one edge of reclaimed boards through a jointer, use a table saw with a jig or use a track saw.

BEVELS FACING DOWN REINFORCED PACKING TAPE

5-1/2" 45° BEVELS POINT OF BACK BEVEL FEATHERBOARD OUTER SIDE OF BEAM 5° TO 15° BACK BEVEL

SAND THE BEVELED POINT TO THE LINE