REPLACE A BAD BOARD
Even if your deck has seen better days, a complete rebuild probably isn’t necessary. Replacing problem boards is faster and cheaper. Whether you have one problem spot to replace or many, the process is the same.
1 CUT PROBLEM DECK BOARD FREE
Using a jigsaw, cut the bad section of board free from the joists at both ends. Mark and cut alongside the joist using a Speed square as a guide.
When determining where to cut out the board, keep these guidelines in mind:
• Splices should be offset by at least one joist space.
• New boards should be supported by three joists or cleats.
• If possible, stagger splices over four or more rows of boards.
• Mark the replacement boards before cutting—weaving the splices can be a puzzle.
2 PULL NAILS, REMOVE BOARD AND FASTEN CLEATS
Remove any nails still holding down the board by driving a cat’s paw into the wood under each nail head and pulling back on the handle. If the nail head pulls off, grab the nail shank with locking pliers.
Remove the bad board as well as any deck fasteners stuck in the joists. Then install cleats to support the ends of the new board. Fasten 12-in.-long cleats to the joists after pulling them up against the bottom of the adjacent deck boards.
3 INSTALL FLASHING
Before installing the new board, place a piece of flashing tin on top of the cleat. If possible, lift the abutting board slightly and slide the flashing underneath it as well. The flashing keeps water from standing on the cleat-joist seam, preventing future joist rot.
4 INSTALL NEW BOARD
Using the same material as the rest of the deck, cut a length to fit the opening. Leave a 1/16-in. gap between the boards to allow the ends to dry when they get wet. Position the board, drill pilot holes and fasten the board to the joists. Use the same spacing and fasteners as you used on the rest of the deck.