INSTALL SEAT SLATS
10 ADD SCREWS FOR STOPS
Drill a 3/16-in. hole in the center of the rear support pipe, then screw a 2-in. #8 sheet metal screw (use a 1/8-in. pilot hole) up into the center back support. This connection will keep the pipe from sliding to one side while the swing is swinging.
With the pipes in place, drill a 9/32-in.-dia. hole 1 in. from the end of each pipe for the eye bolts. Angle them slightly toward the center of the swing to minimize the torque on the pipe and prevent the bolts from breaking.
Note: During the final assembly, squirt thread-locking compound on the eye bolt threads. Cut the eye bolts flush with the nuts and add rubber caps to the pipe ends for safety.
11
Attach the six seat slats (N) to the seat braces
(A1 and A2) by predrilling and screwing them into place with 1⅝-in. deck screws. Use a countersink bit to ensure the heads are sunk below the seating surface. Attach the seat slat at the base of the seat tight against the back slats (H and J). Space the remaining slats so the gaps between them are even (around ¼ in.) and the front seat slat overhangs the front stringer (C) by ½ in. Note: A few slats may touch due to the shape of the seat—see Figure B.
12 EVEN OUT HIGH SPOTS
Because the seat curves, the slat edges can ride high in some areas, making for an uncomfortable ride. Smooth any high spots in the seat slats with an orbital sander. Then sand the entire swing with 150-grit sandpaper.
The swing is now ready for any exterior stain, paint or finish (we used a semitransparent exterior stain). Wipe off the dust and vacuum the swing, then use a brush or roller to apply.
13 HANG THE SWING
Hang the swing securely using special quick-link eyes to join the lengths of chain. The swing should tip back slightly at the arms, about 1 in. from back to front, when at rest.
14 INSTALL THE SWING
Screw a length of treated 2×4 into solid framing to support each chain. Be sure to use 4-in.-long lag screws and span at least three ceiling joists on your porch.