Munroe Bergdorf: ‘At the beginning of my transition I felt the need to look feminine – now I don’t care’

Clothes used to hold a lot more significance for me than they do now. In 2011, at the beginning of my transition, I definitely felt the need to look feminine for people in order to validate my gender identity. Now I just don’t care. I am as much a woman if I’m in trackie bottoms and

an oversized jumper as I am in a long sequin gown – it has no impact on who I am as a person.

That’s something it has taken me a long time to learn, but it’s also why the conversations surrounding non-binary identities are so important. It is getting rid of gender stereotypes that ultimately oppress everybody. I think that being complacent and not challenging norms is dangerous, because marginalised people don’t benefit from the norm.

This shirt dress is by Art School London – two young designers who also happen to be non-binary – and I wore it at London fashion week menswear earlier this year. I walked for Art School two seasons back and just fell in love with them. I like that they’re making a statement by saying: “What is menswear in 2019?” It could be absolutely anything.

I am a little more dressy than usual at fashion week, but this is a typical “going out” look for me. I don’t like to stick to a single aesthetic and I’m inspired by women who are the same: Beyoncé, Rihanna, even Oprah. Having one set look works for some people but my tastes tend to change, although I gravitate towards clothes that make me feel me empowered. I don’t have any fashion regrets: everything I’ve worn, I’ve wanted to wear at the time. Not everything works but it doesn’t have to – you’re allowed to get it wrong. I just wear whatever I feel excited by.

At the beginning of my transition, I was more experimental with my clothes – but even now I’m always up for trying new things. I’ve definitely honed it and know what is flattering for my shape – but, also, my shape has changed. I’m a lot more curvy now and I’ve learned how to embrace that. I guess I’d describe my style as “comfortably glamorous”.