The Guardian (USA)

Pretzels, switchboar­ds and faux fur: the royals' most controvers­ial hats

- Jana Schibli

As reviews for the third season of The Crown begin to trickle in, audiences watch the trailer on repeat, looking for hidden clues to what the latest instalment might entail. But in that trailer, there’s something that almost steals the show: the hat worn by the Queen for her Silver Jubilee celebratio­ns in June 1977, controvers­ial in its whimsy and ridiculed for its daring.

Designed by the royal milliner Frederick Fox, it wrapped round the Queen’s head and matched the Hardy Amies ensemble she wore on the day. Hanging from the back were 25 pink bell flowers with green silken stems, symbolisin­g her 25-year reign.

Commentato­rs were not kind about the hat. In a 1977 Guardian article, the Labour MP Neil Kinnock described the Jubilee as “an action replay with a lady in a pink hat that looks like a disconnect­ed switchboar­d”. In the Washington Post, Sally Quinn described the colour of the Queen’s ensemble as “garish and inelegant”.

Prone to interpreta­tion as either a silent protest or fashion faux-pas, royal hats regularly prove controvers­ial. “They are very often symbolic, and [royal designer Sir Norman] Hartnell was the one who brought the old practice of using symbolism with embroidery into modern dress,” says Michael Pick, whose Hartnell biography has just been published. “The hat is a substitute for a crown,” he adds. “People probably read far more into it than is intended.”

Here are some other examples of royal hats that have raised eyebrows. The helmet hat

Shaped like a helmet and embroidere­d with pearls, the Queen’s Tudorinspi­red hat for the 1969 investitur­e of the Prince of Wales was designed by Hartnell and milliner Simone Mirman. It was quite a look. “Hartnell was very keen on adapting historical dress to suit modern times, particular­ly for the royal family,” says Pick. “The dresses they all wore for that were quite short for the time, and he had to have something which balanced with the outfit. He wanted something that reflected the history of Caernarfon castle, so that’s where the Tudor motif came from.”

Despite the historical influence, some members of the public were reportedly unimpresse­d with the queen’s choice of headwear, having expected her to wear a crown for the occasion.

The pretzel hat

Perfectly symmetrica­l, beige and glittering slightly, the infamous Philip Treacy creation was perched on Princess Beatrice of York’s head at the 2011 wedding of Prince William and

Catherine Middleton. Chaos ensued: her headwear was called everything from a toilet seat to a Turkey Twizzler to a pair of antlers, and a Facebook group dedicated to the hat accrued tens of thousands of likes in a matter of days.

“There was a moment where I thought I would find myself with my head on a spike outside the Tower of London,” Treacy said of the backlash on BBC Radio 4. “But it was a very modern hat and modernity is always unusual things.”

Princess Diana, not wearing a hat The Princess of Wales was known to ditch royal fashion rules when she saw no sense in them. Royals are supposed to wear hats and gloves at every formal occasion, but Diana was often seen without them when visiting towns or hospitals. Eschewing hats and gloves meant appearing more approachab­le, as she once reasoned: “You can’t cuddle a child in a hat.”

The hat of the union

In June 2017, while the Queen delivered her speech to parliament, detailing how the government was going to complete Brexit, all eyes were on Her Majesty’s head: her hat, by Stella McLaren, was a bright blue, five blue flowers with yellow cores stitched to the front. Could the Queen be a remainer?

Apparently not: “It never occurred to Stella and me that people might think we were copying the European Union flag,” the Queen’s dresser Angela Kelly writes in her new memoir, The Other Side of the Coin. “It was a coincidenc­e but, boy, did it attract a lot of attention, and it certainly made us smile.” The Queen wore the same hat to tea with President Trump in 2018, but the flowers had been replaced by a ribbon ... The beanie

Angry Twitter users expressed their disgust when the Duchess of Cambridge was photograph­ed wearing a beanie by designer Eugenia Kim with what looked like a fur pom-pom during the 2018 Scandinavi­an tour. Things quietened down quickly, though, when Kensington Palace explained that the fur was faux. “Today’s luxurious faux furs are fit for a queen – or a duchess,” said Elisa Allen, director of the animal charity Peta.

A hat in Fiji

Hats can be synonymous with tradition – or the breaking of it. On a 2018 royal tour, Meghan and Prince Harry were welcomed to Fiji with a traditiona­l ceremony known as Veiqaravi Vakavanua. “No one is allowed to wear anything on their heads or have anything above their head, like an umbrella,” the journalist Rebecca English had tweeted before the ceremony. The Duchess of Sussex attended wearing a

Stephen Jones hat, setting off a Twitter storm of disapprova­l and multiple articles.

Jeans and a hat

The Duchess of Sussex was also frowned upon for wearing jeans and a straw hat at Wimbledon to watch a Serena Williams match in July 2019. She wasn’t allowed to watch from the Royal Box (though it’s not clear if she wanted to) because jeans are not permitted there. The same goes for hats: the dress code dictates that spectators shouldn’t wear them out of respect for the people sitting behind.

 ?? Composite: Stefan Rousseau/AFP/Getty Images; Toby Melville/REUTERS; Anwar Hussein/Getty Images ?? From left: the Queen at the opening of parliament, 2017; Princess Beatrice at the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton in 2011; the Queen on a Silver Jubilee walkabout in 1977.
Composite: Stefan Rousseau/AFP/Getty Images; Toby Melville/REUTERS; Anwar Hussein/Getty Images From left: the Queen at the opening of parliament, 2017; Princess Beatrice at the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton in 2011; the Queen on a Silver Jubilee walkabout in 1977.
 ?? Photograph: Hulton Archive/Getty Images ?? Tudor motif … Queen Elizabeth II crowns Prince Charles at his investitur­e at Caernarfon castle, 1969.
Photograph: Hulton Archive/Getty Images Tudor motif … Queen Elizabeth II crowns Prince Charles at his investitur­e at Caernarfon castle, 1969.

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