The Guardian (USA)

Kamala Harris and Mindy Kaling's Indian cooking melted my heart – and made me cringe

- Ankita Rao

Ihave a complicate­d relationsh­ip with Mindy Kaling. I’ll watch pretty much everything she makes, and eagerly, but not without disappoint­ment. While her more recent production­s – Four Weddings and a Funeral,a Hulu series and remake of the 90s movie – navigate culture and identity fairly well, I felt like Kaling spent many years seemingly scrubbing her Indian identity from her projects, which were staffed almost exclusivel­y by white writers and producers.

I feel similarly about presidenti­al candidate Kamala Harris, who is black and Indian. On the one hand, Harris gave me goosebumps when she took Jeff Sessions, the former attorney general, to task in 2017, or in her sharp and candid dialogue with then supreme court nominee Brett Kavanaugh. On the other hand, she’s a cop, one whose agenda has sometimes clashed with the needs of brown and black communitie­s.

In either case, neither of these women have consistent­ly upheld or recognized their Indian identity in any significan­t or public way, or looked out for the south Asian community. That is, until now.

In a video-slash-PR-stunt released on their social media counts on Monday, Harris and Kaling teamed up to make masala dosas and talk about their immigrant parents, Indian food, and Besant Nagar, a neighborho­od in Chennai where Kaling’s father and Harris’s mother hail from.

If there’s something that can melt my skeptical heart here, it’s freaking masala dosa. I take umbrage with Kaling’s descriptio­n of this all-time favorite fare as “sourdough crepe”, but she makes it better than I do, so I’ll bite my tongue. The truth is, even if Kaling and Harris aren’t the perfect leaders, this video is proof of a type of progress that our immigrant parents probably couldn’t have imagined when they moved to the country.

As actor and advocate Kal Penn tweeted in a note to his 12-year-old self: “One day, one of the funniest people on TV will cook a meal with a progressiv­e US senator who happens to be running for president, and they’ll both be strong Indian American women.”

At its best, Kaling – who has been increasing­ly posting videos of her cooking Indian food in recent years – and

Harris chat about childhoods that are remarkably resonant for those of us who grew up in similar households. As her father walks through her front door, Kaling talks about sneaking out with her cousins to eat meat out of view of her strict vegetarian grandparen­ts. Harris remembers how the family dog was fed rice and yogurt.

But, as any celebrity-politician setup goes, it gets cringey, too: “You look like the entire one-half of my family,” Harris tells Kaling. And the word Indian is employed approximat­ely 1,409 times to really drive home the point of shared identity.

As we watch Harris struggle to protect her flagging campaign, it’s clear why turning to Kaling, and dosas, is important. Not only does the audience skew young and female, but the south Asian vote is 1.3 million people strong, and voter turnout among Asian Americans as a whole has sharply increased in the past decade, according to the Brookings Institutio­n.

Meanwhile, the pool of south Asians engaged in politics is notable. Gone are the days of the occasional Bobby Jindal. Now, Washington congresswo­man Pramila Jayapal is a progressiv­e leader, and California congressma­n Ro Khanna represents a diverse district encompassi­ng some of the biggest immigrant and labor issues of our time.

It makes sense, then, that we land here, in Kaling’s kitchen, figuring out whether or not cashews and peas belong in the masala, with Harris protesting, “just don’t call me auntie”. Because, as Kaling says, there is something about watching Harris on the presidenti­al stage, despite misgivings about her potential or her politics.

She’s the kind of candidate that has the Indian diaspora meeting in the grocery store or on Twitter and reminding each other: “You know she’s Indian, right?”

 ??  ?? Democratic presidenti­al candidate Kamala Harris teamed up with Mindy Kaling, pictured, to make masala dosas. Photograph: Angela Weiss/AFP via Getty Images
Democratic presidenti­al candidate Kamala Harris teamed up with Mindy Kaling, pictured, to make masala dosas. Photograph: Angela Weiss/AFP via Getty Images

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States