The Guardian (USA)

Escapist, flamboyant, fun: White Lotus inspires love of Italian maximalist look

- Miranda Bryant

Fans of will be familiar with the classic Sicilian vases known as testa di morothat adorn the fictional luxury hotel in the second season of the TV drama. The handpainte­d faces hark back to the legend of a Moorish man who fell in love with a local woman, only to have his head cut off when she discovered he had a wife back home.

The director uses these ornaments as a powerful visual motif to remind viewers to be wary of the guests and their actions. But their appearance in the hit show has also prompted a surge of interest in Italian maximalism and ceramics.

The British-based online seller Bettina Ceramica, which specialise­s in handmade traditiona­l Italian ceramics, has been inundated with messages.

Meanwhile the online retailer Etsy reports an increase of more than 20% in searches for testa di moro and Italianins­pired pieces compared with a year ago – a trend it expects to continue growing.

While maximalism – and Italy in general – are already having a pop culture moment, evident in fashion, television and interiors, The White Lotushas only helped to drive the trend. “Overthe-top seems to be the rule of the day,” said Carl J Dellatore, the New York writer, textile designer and author of More Is More Is More.

“And Italian maximalism, specifical­ly the Memphis movement, is playing a part.” The Sicilian interiors of The White Lotus provided “endless inspiratio­n”, he said. “I expect them to influence contempora­ry interiors.”

Since the Memphis group, the 80s Italian design and architectu­re collective founded by Ettore Sottsass, there have been many versions of Italian maximalism. Its latest evolution was defined by audacious colour and colour combinatio­ns, a vibrant mix of patterns and juxtaposed silhouette­s, he said. “The new rule? Take chances – break the rules.”

The trend is in keeping with a wider move, particular­ly among Gen Z, away from big mass-produced brands towards limited-run, exclusive, sustainabl­y made products.

Natalie Sytner, founder of Bettina Ceramica, said the small-batch nature of Italian ceramics was central to its appeal, with demand fuelled by social media. “When I was a student and it was just 100% Ikea, you didn’t think about doing anything different,” she said. “And now, in all age groups really, everybody is keen for something new, different, interestin­g, sustainabl­e, with a story, handmade and handpainte­d.”

Some of the pieces she sells – which include acquasanti­era, or holy water vessels, figurine candlestic­ks, Santa Croce ornaments and Gigli jugs and bowls – have been made for hundreds of years. Increasing­ly, people are taking a mixed media approach to decorating their walls – combining ceramic wallhangin­gs with paintings and other artwork.

It’s helping to revive a trade that until recently was almost dormant, she said. “Lots of my artisans and makers had stopped making a lot of the designs I’ve recommissi­oned them to make, and we’ve redesigned them together. So a lot of people are loving that – the resurgence of a style which maybe wouldn’t be here otherwise.”

Among artists and artisans outside Venice and Florence, there was “excitement brewing and bubbling”, she added. “I think they all realise that, hopefully, it can be a bustling trade again.”

Cristina Onori, production designer on the second season of The White Lotus, said her original aim was to bring life into the hotel using symbols of Sicily’s heritage and transporti­ng them into the modern world.

Onori, who is based in Rome, has been surprised and delighted by the wide-reaching internatio­nal impact the show has had since its release. “I love the fact that people can start to put colour and shining ceramics all around.”

Design writer and photograph­er Claire Bingham said Italy’s design culture was about “pushing boundaries with a no-rules approach”, but that it was the escapism of maximalism that made it so compelling today. “The bright colours of the Mediterran­ean, the traditiona­l craft of the Majolica ceramics and the opulence of a Murano chandelier represent a mood that’s escapist, flamboyant and fun. All this is attractive right now.”

While mid-century pieces will always have appeal as design staples, the author of More is More: Memphis, Maximalism and New Wave Design, said 1980s pieces that “combine extravagan­t shape and colour” were the contempora­ry designs to invest in.

Examples of modern maximalism cited by Bingham include the frescoes, furniture and azulejo tilework of the new Christian Louboutin Vermelho hotel in Portugal; JJ Martin’s La Double J boutique in Milan; Buchanan Studio’s interiors; and the new salt and pepper grinders by Fabien Cappello for the Swedish brand Hem.

To that she adds Harry Lambert’s styling for Harry Styles. “The harlequin sequin jumpsuit is a maximalist dream.”

Bethan Laura Wood, the British designer, said maximalism was increasing­ly present in design, each iteration adding another layer. Life in a multiscree­n, data and image highspeed world also suited the aesthetic, she said. “During lockdown and post-lockdown, we haven’t been able to avoid our interiors, we’ve been stuck with them. And so that also has opened the gateway to people to play with their interiors more, or consider their interiors more, because they’re no longer so private.”

 ?? ?? Meghann Fahy as Daphne Babcock in The White Lotus, with a testa di moro, a motif in the series. Photograph: HBO
Meghann Fahy as Daphne Babcock in The White Lotus, with a testa di moro, a motif in the series. Photograph: HBO
 ?? ?? Acquasanti­era from Bettina Ceramica. Photograph: Bettina Ceramica
Acquasanti­era from Bettina Ceramica. Photograph: Bettina Ceramica

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