The Guardian (USA)

For years I only ate animals whose names I knew and it made perfect sense

- Calla Wahlquist

Iused to only eat meat from sheep whose names I knew. This was not a particular­ly difficult task: they were all called Sam, through a naming convention establishe­d by my father. He assured us it had nothing to do with both his daughters dating people named Sam at the time.

Being vegetarian except for lamb grown on my parents’ farm, from sheep I had likely held as babies, has baffled meat eaters and vegetarian­s alike. When my parents sold the farm, and the last cuts left the freezer, I stopped eating meat altogether. I didn’t miss it. I never cook it myself and, when given the choice, I will always choose not to eat it.

This carve out – only eat animals you know – has always made perfect sense to me. There are many reasons to be vegetarian or vegan, ranging from ethical objections and environmen­tal concerns to health and financial considerat­ions. Mine was 50/50 environmen­tal and ethical. It is, for me, the lowest friction way to reduce my carbon emissions, a choice so easy it doesn’t even feel like a choice. The ethical considerat­ion was not an objection to the concept of eating meat, but to some modern farming practices that cause significan­t stress to the animal. Things such as lengthy transport and extended periods of time in a feedlot. I know why those things happen and know the meat industry could not meet its production demands without them. But I preferred to opt out.

With so many family members in farming, I could always get meat directly from the source. I couldn’t tell you, really, why that changes the ethical equation, and I’m sure there will be people rushing to tell me that it doesn’t. But, to me, eating meat when you know exactly how the animal was raised and how it was killed is an entirely different propositio­n to buying something from the supermarke­t and never once thinking where it came from.

Sign up to receive Guardian Australia’s fortnightl­y Rural Network email newsletter

This is also the basis of the paddockto-plate movement, which is usually sold as a way of improving sustainabi­lity and animal welfare, as well as the quality of the product. This is certainly the case in commercial paddockto-plate enterprise­s, although the most direct applicatio­ns of this philosophy often lose out somewhat on quality. I’m not sure the mutton fritters my grandmothe­r made with the leftover roast from the six-year-old merino would win any gourmet awards. Pop had usually strung it up and butchered it because it had stopped producing. But the fat lambs my parents farmed were always top quality, except for that time the butcher mixed up the carcasses and mum put her fork down in disgust because the lamb he’d sent back had been on clover.

But, for me, again, it’s not really about quality. I’ve never worried about what happens to an animal after it dies so long as it lives well and dies quickly. Guaranteei­ng that it did live well is

 ?? ?? Angus cattle near coastline outside of Currie on King Island, Tasmania. Photograph: James Ross/AAP
Angus cattle near coastline outside of Currie on King Island, Tasmania. Photograph: James Ross/AAP

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States