Sharper and more flattering than the floral midi, the tea dress is making a comeback
First things first. What is a tea dress? Some of you will know what I mean. But some of you will be like: “Oh my days, what nonsense is she on about now?” – so I should explain that this is a real thing, not a name I’ve made up.
A tea dress usually has a 40s silhouette with a defined shoulder. The waist is most often emphasised with a raised seam, or with pin tucks or ruching. Around the ribs, waist and hips it is not skin-tight yet not baggy; loose enough that the lightweight, slippery fabric still has movement on the body rather than being fully stuffed. There might be flowers or polka dots. Little covered buttons, too.
So now you are picturing yourself riding a bicycle with a wicker basket, calling out cheerfully to the postie as you cycle into the village for a half pound of butter. Bingo. That’s precisely the dress I’m talking about.
The tea dress is making a style comeback to fill the gap left after people like me ruthlessly cancelled the floral midi dress earlier this year. You may have noticed that it sounds a lot like that dress, what with often being floral and being knee length or longer. But the tea dress has a bit more oomph to it. The floral midi dress got cancelled for being a bit boring and generic; the tea dress is more shapely, more high energy. Where a floral midi can feel a bit schlumpy, a tea dress snaps its fingers at you, makes you stand up straight and pull your shoulders back.
Also, the tea dress looks good on most women. The shape emphasises the vertical line between your ribs at the front, rather than the horizontal one around your waist, which is more relaxing if, like me, you like being able to eat lunch without worrying that your tummy might stick out a bit afterwards. It also covers the shoulders and knees, which makes it more versatile than a skimpy holiday dress.
It is very important not to get hung up on the 40s thing. Historical accuracy is not the point. We are in the market for a mood, not a re-enactment. Two fancy designer dresses have done a lot to bring the tea dress back this summer, and both are modern interpretations that take the style somewhere different. The Victoria Beckham Gathered Waist Midi Dress, which has been worn in a very Agatha Christie poison green by everyone from Kendall Jenner to Queen Letizia of Spain, is tea-dress length, with delicate gathering and draped sleeves, but has a simple high neckline that makes it less sweet and flirty, a bit cooler. Alessandra Rich’s polka-dot dress, which is generally agreed to be the best thing about the Princess of Wales’s wardrobe, is a little more glam and starched, with pearl-and-gilt buttons and a formal ivory collar.
Excellent affordable tea dresses abound. Nobody’s Child makes a great modern tea dress: the £59 buttonthrough Alexis has a shirred panel at the rear for gentle shaping and tiedetail sleeves, and comes in gingham or cherry print. Jigsaw’s Mini Graphic Pansy Tea Dress, reduced at the time of writing from £155 to £108, has decorative rouleau button loops trimming the V-shaped neckline, which is a nice quirky touch.
Or go vintage. I would bet that this classic’s return is partly because more of us are rummaging vintage rails. It was popular in the 1970s, and those versions are plentiful. But the more authentically retro your tea dress, the less faithful your styling should be. Brightly coloured trainers rather than a brogue; a big sweater around your neck rather than a little cardi. The tea dress is a real thing. I didn’t just make it up. But fashion history looks best when worn lightly.
A tea dress snaps its fingers at you, makes you stand up straight