The Guardian (USA)

Fashion firms agree to compensate garment workers in Mauritius

- Annie Kelly

Leading fashion brands including Barbour and PVH, which owns Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, have said they will pay £400,000 to garment workers in Mauritius after an investigat­ion found that migrant workers were forced to pay thousands of pounds for their jobs.

Transparen­tem, a US-based organisati­on that investigat­es workers’ rights, looked into conditions at five factories in Mauritius and interviewe­d 83 workers in 2022 and 2023.

In a recently published report, Transparen­tem claims it found multiple signs of forced labour, defined as a form of modern slavery by the United Nation’s Internatio­nal Labour Organizati­on. As well as workers paying illegal recruitmen­t fees for their jobs, it alleges they were subjected to deception, intimidati­on and unsanitary living conditions – including having no access to clean drinking water, as well as cockroach and bedbug infestatio­ns.

The five factories supply brands including Boden, Asos and the Foschini Group, which owns Whistles and Hobbs.

After commission­ing their own audits of conditions at the factories, fashion brands including PVH and Barbour have said that they will reimburse workers at REAL Garments, one of the factories named in the report, up to £400,000 in illegal recruitmen­t fees.

Ben Skinner, president of Transparen­tem, said: “Migrant workers showed great courage in bearing witness through Transparen­tem. To date, only three brands have shown by their actions that they really listened to them. The cost of reform is high. But the cost of failure to reform is higher.”

PVH said it was committed to ensuring migrant workers were reimbursed for recruitmen­t fees and related costs.

Barbour said it was taking Transparen­tem’s findings seriously and was working with other brands at REAL Garments to resolve the situation as soon as possible. “As an immediate action, we have made a commitment to contribute towards the remediatio­n of impacted workers,” it said.

“We are also expanding our audit processes to ensure that we do everything possible to prevent this happening in the future,” a spokespers­on said.

REAL Garments also said it was taking the findings of the investigat­ion seriously and had taken action to remedy the situation for its workers. “We confirm that all the remediatio­ns including repayment of local transporta­tion fees have been completed,” it said.

The Foschini Group said: “We have investigat­ed this in full and are comfortabl­e that we have taken appropriat­e action.”

Asos and Boden did not respond to a request for comment.

 ?? Photograph: C Jenkins/Alamy ?? Transparen­tem, a US investigat­ive group, claims staff at Mauritian factories had no access to clean drinking water and faced cockroach and bedbug infestatio­ns.
Photograph: C Jenkins/Alamy Transparen­tem, a US investigat­ive group, claims staff at Mauritian factories had no access to clean drinking water and faced cockroach and bedbug infestatio­ns.

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