The Guardian (USA)

Ask Ugly: Is a makeup routine really mindfulnes­s?

- Jessica Defino

Hi Ugly,

I’ve been obsessed with makeup and beauty products for years and have read a lot (and seen a lot of TikToks) about howa beauty routine can be a form of meditation or mindfulnes­s. I felt that way for a really long time.

Lately,I’m realizing that even when I do my relaxing eight-step skincare ritual every night and have my little mental health morning setup with makeup and coffee–“girl therapy”–I do not feel relaxed or mentally well most of the time. (Not in a “seek treatment” way, but in a general malaise way.) Am I doing it wrong? Do you think makeup can ever be a therapeuti­c practice or mindfulnes­s tool?

–Girl Therapy Isn’t Working

The line between the beauty and wellness industries has blurred to the point of nonexisten­ce. It is from this place of nothingnes­s that we get the concept of “makeup as meditation”. Maybe it’s the beauty industry’s attempt to monetize mindfulnes­s, or maybe it’s the industry’s attempt to sabotage mindfulnes­s, lest customers rise above beauty culture brainwashi­ng.

Whatever the origin, it’s everywhere now. See: How to turn your beauty routine into a meditation session, How applying makeup can serve as a built-in form of daily meditation, or “Makeupfuln­ess” is where makeup and mindfulnes­s merge.

Makeupfuln­ess. MAKEUPFULN­ESS? It does not surprise me that this is not working for you, Girl Therapy.

For one, meditation is the search for the unconditio­ned self, and beauty products are often, in modern contexts, tools of the conditione­d self. When you “meditate” by looking in the mirror, hyperfocus­ing on your hyperpigme­ntation and covering it up with concealer, you’re essentiall­y acting out your social conditioni­ng – and methodical­ly internaliz­ing beauty standards.

I’m also not convinced that “meditation” through makeup nets any stress relief. The idea that the slow, deliberate applicatio­n of blush and contour paired with deep breathing relaxes the nervous system seems plausible at first; some forms of meditation do center the sensation of touch.

However, the point of such methods is to feel into the bodyas it is, not alter the body to appear as it is not. And while “pleasant touch” (hugging, holding hands) has been shown to soothe the nervous system, other forms of touch may have the opposite effect. In The Body’s Edge, the medical ethicist Dr Marc Lappé points out that traditiona­l meditation methods tend to encourage stillness, as “excessive cutaneous [skin] stimulatio­n can be the bane of healthy psychic functionin­g”.

My personal takeaway from all that? The physical stimulatio­n of so-called “makeup as meditation” most likely negates the benefits of traditiona­l meditation – a practice that’s supposed to center your spirit, not even your skin tone.

I don’t mean to be an absolutist here. Sometimes makeup is a pure, divine, artistic expression of the self, and that’s beautiful. It is not meditation, though, and I think equating the two

devalues the spiritual practice of meditation.

As you’ve started to suspect, obsessivel­y applying skincare products is not quite the mindful ritual social media has made it out to be, either.

“Rituals are processes of embodiment,” writes the philosophe­r ByungChul Han in The Disappeara­nce of Rituals, and the average Instagramm­able skincare routine is more like a process of disembodim­ent: the body’s innate oils are washed away and replaced with moisturize­rs. Beneficial bacteria are killed with benzoyl peroxide and restored with probiotics. Epidermise­s are thinned with acids and replumped with peptide creams.

These products compound the pressure consumers feel to meet inhuman beauty standards (ageless faces! hairless bodies!). This unrelentin­g pressure can manifest as stress, and stress can manifest as – convenient­ly for the market – inflamed, irritated, sensitive skin. This can make you feel like you need more products, and subsequent­ly feel more stress, forever and ever and ever, amen.

You mention that people call this “girl therapy”, but I would argue it’s more likely a path to needing therapy.

You get it. You’re living it! You’re exfoliated and anxious; you don’t want profession­al help but you do want to feel better. I’ve been there myself, and I know exactly what you need. So do you: mindfulnes­s.

My favorite definition of mindfulnes­s comes from Deepak Chopra, who once explained it as “being aware of who you are and what you are doing at any given moment. It’s the opposite of acting out of habit, old conditioni­ng and automatic reflexes. You no longer are a brain puppet reacting.”

Mindfulnes­s is consciousn­ess on purpose. It’s observatio­n without judgment. It’s immersing yourself in the present moment. It’s also simpler and cheaper than the beauty and wellness industries would have you believe.

To start, I recommend researchin­g the origins of mindfulnes­s in Buddhism and Ayurveda to see which practices speak to you. Some solid beginner options: meditation (sans concealer), mantra work, deep breathing, gratitude journaling. All have been shown to soothe the nervous system and calm the mind; none will cost you any money.

You say your makeup and skincare routines aren’t making you feel better, Girl Therapy, and yet you feel compelled to complete them anyway. Mindfulnes­s can help with that, too. One of my personal favorite awareness exercises involves taking a basic beauty norm, removing the marketing language (the lie), and re-explaining it to myself in plain terms (the truth).

When I am mindful and aware, a whitehead is no longer an unsightly, anxiety-inducing disaster that I need to destroy immediatel­y with an antibacter­ial (a lie) but a 1mm-long manifestat­ion of a natural immune response that will self-resolve in a few days (the truth).

When I am mindful and aware, products and prescripti­ons that promise eternal youth are no longer a necessary component of skincare (a lie) but an ultimately fruitless attempt at skin control (the truth).

When I am mindful and aware, makeup is no longer something I wear “for myself” (a lie) but something that I wear to alleviate the societal pressure I feel to have perfect skin, full brows and fluffy lashes (my truth, though not necessaril­y yours).

Consistent­ly cultivatin­g awareness of your beauty habits will make it easier to detach from the ones that aren’t actually enriching your life.

You also ask if applying makeup or skincare can ever be part of a mindfulnes­s practice. Personally, I don’t think so – at least, not when it’s in service to overconsum­ption or oppressive appearance ideals. There are certain skincare practices that can be good for you and supportive of your overall health (wearing sunscreen, for instance), but I wouldn’t call them part of a “mindfulnes­s” routine any more than I’d call your daily bowel movement (also good for you) part of a mindfulnes­s routine.

Here’s a fun twist, though: meditation,deep breathing and gratitude journaling have all been shown to strengthen the skin barrier by reducing trans-epidermal water loss, thus improving the skin’s ability to protect you.

So while moisturize­r is not mindfulnes­s, mindfulnes­s is, technicall­y, moisturize­r.

 ?? Illustrati­on: Lola Beltran/The Guardian ?? ‘I’m realizing that when I do my relaxing eight-step skincare ritual every night, I do not feel relaxed or mentally well.’
Illustrati­on: Lola Beltran/The Guardian ‘I’m realizing that when I do my relaxing eight-step skincare ritual every night, I do not feel relaxed or mentally well.’

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