20 ways to get good jeans: denim fashion special
Are skinny jeans back in fashion?
Chioma Nnadi, head of editorial content, British VogueSkinny jeans had such a chokehold on fashion in the 2010s, so it’s hard to imagine a full-on revival so soon. I was actually quite surprised to see them turn up at some of the big shows this season: Prada, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton. It might be that our obsession with indie sleaze is finally taking hold in a bigger way and then, of course, you have zeitgeisty cultural moments that have put them back in the conversation, like the Amy Winehouse biopic. Personally I’ve never found them to be particularly flattering, at least not on me. So I’ll be steering clear this time around. @chiomannadi
Should you always have stretch in your jeans or is stiff better?
Anne-Marie Curtis, founder and editor-in-chief of The Calendar MagazineThough I’ve dabbled with stretch denim over the years, these days for me it’s a hard “no”. I learned from Anna Foster, founder of E.L.V. denim, that even if jeans contain only 1% stretch in them they cannot biodegrade or be recycled and it basically contaminates the garment. Sustainable concerns aside, I honestly think stiff denim that gradually softens as you wear it and slowly moulds to your body shape is longer lasting and inherently cooler looking. You only have to look at any iconic imagery of jeans, from Marilyn Monroe in The Misfits to those 1980s Levi’s 501 ads and Jane Birkin in her signature faded blue flares, to see that “proper” denim is the way to go. One of my favourite pairs of jeans, a wide indigo denim design from Raey, were so stiff when I got them they could practically stand up on their own. Now, after countless wears, they are beautifully soft, while still maintaining their shape, and will be in my wardrobe for the long haul.
Do back pockets make a big difference to how flattering jeans are on my bum?
Paige Adams-Geller, co-founder and creative director of PaigeThe most flattering placement is when the bottom of the pocket hits where your cheek and thigh meet. Ideally the pockets aren’t too high, or showing too much cheek below the pocket. Back pockets work best, in my opinion, when they’re slightly angled. Flaps and buttons always make the bum look higher and more perky. Also, look out for pockets that have rivets on the top corners.
How can you alter or improve the fit of your jeans?
Faye Oakenfull, fashion industry and celebrity tailorHemming jeans is super simple and something your local dry cleaners can do. Taking in waists, however, can be a little more involved. A quick (and reversible) fix we use on set is to create darts through the waistband to the top of the pockets. I’d only suggest this if it’s a minor amount, though. For a more permanent fix, the waistband will need removing across the back for resizing and seams will need unpicking. Find someone you trust to do the alterations. If you find yourself between sizes when buying denim, then always buy the size up so there is room to alter. Check with the brand directly, too, Levi’s and Nudie offer alterations; or try theseam.uk.
Are white jeans a total ‘no’?
Steph Stevens, stylist and consultantNot at all. As someone who has lived in blue jeans forever, when I put my white ones on, I feel slightly more dressed up. Somehow they look more chic, but I’m still in my comfort zone. I wear them when I need to make a bit more of an effort without going OTT, so client meetings, a nice dinner, or just if I want a fresher look. I wear Arket’s barrel wide-leg ones with a man’s style shirt tucked in and a bit of heel. On holiday, I wear them with a silk vest or blouse and rope sandals. Studio Nicholson’s Akerman jeans in white are also great. Never wear them in the rain and invest in a bottle of Attire Care’s red-wine stain remover.
How do you find the perfect rise for you and your shape?
Deryane Tadd, owner and founder of The Dressing RoomFor the majority of people, the most flattering fit is a mid-rise or high-rise jean, which can be anything from 9.5in to 13in. A mid-rise jean should sit on the middle of your hips and is great for a more relaxed, laidback look. For a polished, modern look, a high-rise jean is a great option and works on petite frames through to curvy silhouettes. It’s just about choosing the right style and leg shape for your frame. Try Paige and Frame.
How often should you wash your jeans?
Jill Guenza, global VP of women’s design, Levi’sI give people three “todo’s” in order to help their denim last longer. First, wash your jeans less – only once every 10 wears at most in order to preserve their life span. (Spot cleaning is great for the random drop of coffee or food.) Second, dryers are jeans’ enemies. Instead, hang jeans to dry to avoid breaking down the lint. Lastly, wash them cold to help them keep their original colour and to avoid shrinkage.
What are the best ways to repair worn-out jeans?
Orsola de Castro, creative director of Estethica and author of Loved Clothes LastMy favourite is to contour and paint or embroider over every little stain, making it look like its own distinctive shape. In my book, Loved Clothes Last, there are instructions for Boro, a mending technique that layers fabric scraps as patches, as follows: “Start by pinning a scrap at the front and back of the tear – the scrap needs to fully cover the tear. Take an embroidery needle and thread and, from the right side, hand-sew row upon row of running stitch across the patch, securing it to the denim and the backing patch.” In this way, think of your jeans as a canvas; from repairs come reparations and your jeans truly can be the start of your creative journey.
How can I shop denim with a conscience?
Tamsin Blanchard, editor, Hole & CornerRule number 1: shop secondhand. For secondhand and vintage denim, it is a buyers’ market. Aficionados will already know where to look but, online, eBay, Vinted, Depop, etc make it easy to search for specific styles, brands and even unusual sizes. You just have to set your search, be patient and wait for your ship to sail in. E.L.V. Denim is a luxury upcycled brand that trawls secondhand denim – usually the unwanted sizes – to splice together and make their own cult designs. Hiut Denim in Wales is reviving the jean industry in Cardigan, making handcrafted organic denim jeans with free repairs for life. Emily Fitch Miller, creative directorIn a nutshell, yes! If you’ve been
I never wear a belt with jeans. I’ve always liked the simplicity. Am I missing a trick?
overlooking belts you need them on your radar and in your wardrobe now. Adding a belt to your outfit can alter, elevate and inject style into your look. Think of it in the same way as a scarf or piece of jewellery and use it to add interest and pull an outfit together. The most popular current jean styles, such as the wide leg, barrel and horseshoe, all suit a belt to cinch the waist and help balance the proportions. I prefer the contrast and polish of a leather belt with jeans, to give an off-duty style an aspect of polished tailoring. The lower the rise on your jeans the less need for one and no studded belts around hips for now, please! Give the belt a miss if wearing a big statement necklace: you don’t want to look over-styled. If you can raise your budget and are feeling flush, I would go for Celine’s medium Triomphe belt. More realistically, there are plenty of other great alternatives around – especially at Cos, Freepeople and Jigsaw. Once you’ve invested, try the “fashion editor tuck” at the waist to show a glimpse.
Are there any rules when it comes to turning up jeans?
Simon Chilvers, consultant, writer, stylistTurns-ups do have trend moments. Loewe made the deep turn-up a thing recently. But I think you should mostly consider the width of the jean. Skinny or flared/boot-cut with turn-ups generally look awkward. But a baggy looser fit, say a vintage pair of Levi’s, I like rolled up a couple of times to hit the ankle with white socks and trainers, or bare with loafers or flat sandals. But, equally, ditch a turn-up altogether and just hack off with scissors for a raw finish. Is baggy better than skinny?
Is baggy better than skinny?
Navaz Batliwalla, fashion writer and author of The New GarçonneSkinny jeans may be “back”, but baggy jeans have design edge and styling possibilities. A high-waisted, voluminous, tapered cut (from Me+Em or Studio Nicholson) is unapologetically bold, yet in a dark or vintage wash is elevated to classic status worn with polished Derbys or mid-heeled ankle boots. Less than supermodel-tall? Swap extreme volume for a wide, cropped cut. Jigsaw’s white Tyne jean is loose but crisp for the Parisian “garçonne” vibe. Just add loafers and fling a sweater over the shoulders of your trench.
What should people think about when shopping vintage denim?
Natalie Hartley, co-founder, Chillie London, alongside Lydia McNeillAlways try everything on because vintage sizes are very different to what they say on the label. If you’re buying online, don’t be embarrassed to ask for the measurements and communicate as much as possible before you purchase. Don’t follow the trends; the best way to do vintage as a first-timer is to go with what suits you and style around it. We encourage customers to stick to your safe colour and experiment after. Once you’ve got the knack of it, you’ll soon get used to sourcing and know what fits you and the brands you like.
What are the key looks for this season?
Susan Bender Whitfield, creative directorGrey or dark indigo denim straight-leg high-waisted jeans are my favourite go-to jeans, I prefer these tones for an effortless, polished and refined look. Bermuda shorts are a refreshing alternative to the micro short trend and flattering for everyone. Paired with a striped man’s shirt and matching denim blazer, these will be my go-to formal look heading into the summer months. The Horseshoe – barrel-leg silhouette is the definitive hot style for 2024, my favourite pair tapers at the ankle. Worn with Alaia chunky jewel ballet flats, a T-shirt and a bomber jacket for the day, and a sheer organza shirt, oversized blazer and point-toe stilettos for the evening. Oversized wide leg with a high-rise – a versatile style that works day to night, I have a pair in every denim wash by 3 x 1 including one in metallic silver. To elevate this silhouette I’ll add a slingback kitten/stiletto heel to elongate my legs and wear a darker wash for the evening.
What high street shops do the best denim ranges?
Sunil Makan, editor, Marie Claire UKFor wardrobe staples: The Arket Lupine High-Street Flare jeans are impeccable with a 70’s vintage feel and really cute pocket detailing; Cos column jeans are a great cut, they’ll elongate the leg and the denim really holds its shape; and for our petite queens, Whistles Authentic Barrel leg are a great option. For elevated summer essentials, why not try a pair of white jeans: Sézane’s Le Crop jeans are a great length and really nail that French-girl cool insouciance and Massimo Dutti’s Straight Fit High-Waisted feel super luxe. If you’re up for trying something new, a statement pair of denim is the way to go. For the risk-averse, Aligne’s Markus jeans nod to the horseshoe style – granted a less severe take on the trend. For impact, the AllSaints Rhinestone embellished jeans are the perfect way to go. They’re cut with a looser fit and the distressed hemlines toughen up the look.
How do I dress up my jeans so I can go from day to a super-glam night out?
Sarah Harris, Deputy Editor and Fashion Features Director British VogueI feel like this is literally my specialist subject since this was my go-to look for much of the end of the 90s/early 00’s. Back then it was with scarf tops and crystal shoes. Now, I’d go for an oversized black silk blouse with a killer heel, or a skinny tank top and a men’s tux jacket, or a black or chocolate leather blazer or trench. Having said that, a simple roomy cashmere sweater and slinky heel combination would work just as well if you up the ante with jewellery; diamonds, emeralds and chunky gold wins every time. Hair and make up is also important; get a blowdry or consider a slick ponytail and/or a red lip if that’s your thing.
Are you ever too old to wear jeans?
Renia Jaz, @venswifestyle on InstagramI’m 58 and I can’t imagine ever not wearing denim. These days, I may be more likely to choose a classic cut and a dark shade, but no matter what, they’ll always be in my wardrobe. Of course, as we get older, we focus on comfort and so automatically our style will evolve towards elegant classics. One of my favourite ways to style them is with oversized shirts, cashmere double knits and ballerina flats. I think that as we age, we become more confident about what makes us feel good and what makes us look beautiful. And I do believe that jeans can offer us a more youthful look.
What’s the best way to wear double denim right now?
Gaëlle Drevet, founder of The Frankie ShopI think the trendiest way to do double denim this spring is Capri-style cropped trousers, or a long Bermuda silhouette, paired with a strong leather belt and a denim shirt tucked in. Style it with some kitten pointy heels and you are good to go. To avoid having too much going on, I think it’s best to match your denim and let the texture shine.”
Best curvy plus-size brands?
Stevie B Shindler, celebrity stylist and body confidence advocate (steviebstyle.com)M&S are on fire with trend-led, size-inclusive fashion jeans right now; they’ve really upped their fashion game. M&S palazzo jeans with elastane is a great place to start – always look for something with elastane that is not stiff so there’s stretch. River Island are fantastic, sizes run to a UK 22, and ASOS are also very size-inclusive. At the higher end, try Good American, which offer size US 00 to 32. Always shop online (the full size range is rarely carried in store) and try on at home – changing-room mirrors and lighting in shops are horrendous and will do nothing for your self-esteem. Order the size you think you are, the size below and two sizes up – one of them will fit, return the rest. If you find your jeans gape at the back, take them to the dry cleaner to alter and you can enjoy a bespoke pair.
What’s the best approach to wearing jeans pre- and postpartum?
Lauren Milligan, The Barnes Doula, former British Vogue news editorIf you can get it right, maternity denim can be life-changing at the most life-changing of times. It can bring the freedom and reassurance of feeling like your old self when so much of your life is in a vortex of change. Most of us see some significant shape changes that necessitate a new pair of jeans. There is a principal choice to be made with maternity jeans: overbump or underbump? Do you want a pair with a large waistband (super soft jersey that extends all the way over your bump up to your bra), or a pair with small stretchy sections (usually where the pockets would be), so that the waist sits under your bump? Both styles have a wealth of options out there – try Madewell, Citizens of Humanity and 7 For All Mankind for overbump styles; and Paige, 1822 Denim and Hudson for underbump options. Most highstreet stores – including H&M, Topshop online, ASOS Design and Next – carry both, as do maternity specialists Hatch and Seraphine. Once you decide which shape feels best, it’s easy to find others with the same fit at any price point. Postnatally, you may be dreaming of those stiff high-waisted vintage Levi’s, but realistically your first foray out of pyjama bottoms will probably be into something similarly comfortable. When the time comes, despite your reticence to get into them in the first place, you’ll be asking if maybe you can hang on to that stretchy waistband just one week more.