SHARING MANA‘O

Yesterday, February 7, 2024, would have been my father’s 92nd birthday. I won’t wish him a “Happy Heavenly Birthday,” though, because he didn’t subscribe to the belief that Heaven is where good people go in the afterlife. “Heaven,” he would say, “is here and now.” And he would remind me to live each day in appreciation and gratitude for being here, now. After my dad died in 1999, Mom and I continued to celebrate his birthday each year by having dinner at his favorite after-work diner, Sheik’s Restaurant in Kahului. Sadly, we couldn’t carry on the tradition last night, because Sheik’s is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, due to post-pandemic staffing challenges. Instead, I’m honoring his memory by adding what would surely have been his votes in my informal poll of “Maui’s Best Burger and Saimin, Past and Present.” In the past two weeks since asking for your opinions in my last column, I’ve received a fair number of passionate replies, seasoned with yearning for mom-and-pop shops long gone. Lucy Goo’s topped the list of bygone burgers; kinda funny when you think about it, as the full name of the little Wailuku storefront was Lucy Goo’s Pastry Shop. When, as a young teen, I worked in my dad’s dental office, he would send me around the block with a $10 bill, more than enough for two juicy, sloppy cheeseburgers and a bag of sugar cookies or maybe coconut turnovers for dessert. I always wondered who Lucy was, because the only person I ever saw in there was the gruff guy behind the counter. “What you like? Hah?!” He never cracked a smile, but his burgers brought joy to so many. Bullock’s moonburgers came in a close second, well worth the drive from Kahului to Pukalani. One reader mentioned the guava shakes, too, but I don’t recall trying one, probably because the burgers were so big and tasty, I had no room—or desire—for anything else. Wimpy’s Corner received a vote for best burger, and another beloved but long departed Paia establishment, Hew’s, was cited for best saimin (and roast pork). Sam Sato’s received lots of votes for both past and present saimin champ—no surprise there. But Kawaharada’s won the best bygone saimin category, also beating out Kitada’s Kau Kau Korner and Iwaishi Store. Masa’s upstairs lunch counter at Hokama’s Music & Color TV got one vote. I remember his burgers were pretty good, too, but I think Masa’s hospitality and willingness to “make you a deal” on stereo equipment probably attracted more customers than his cooking did. Several people pointed out that saimin and burgers should be consumed together, and all but one of them named Tasty Crust as the best place to indulge in that combo meal, going back more than 60 years. Then, as now, Tasty Crust’s “world-famous” hotcakes were/are a must for the perfect local three-course meal. The lone dissenting vote for best combo (past) was cast for Kawaharada’s, but that person also mentioned Tasty Crust for best current contender, so I guess it’s unanimous. My dad, however, would have voted for Sheik’s saimin, along with their crispy fried chicken. No doubt, the next week will bring a couple of late votes, or some criticism of the results of this unscientific, highly subjective survey. Apologies to the voters who took the time to add sweet reminiscences of their favorite, now-closed restaurants. Perhaps, in a future column, I’ll share those tributes as well. Happy birthday, Daddy, wherever you are. I hope they have saimin there. Kathy Collins is a radio personality (The Buzz 107.5 FM and KEWE 97.9 FM/1240 AM), storyteller, actress, emcee and freelance writer whose “Sharing Mana‘o” column appears every other Wednesday. Her email address is kcmaui913@gmail.com.