The Central Coast’s Arroyo Grande has become a foodie destination. Here’s where to sip and nosh.
The long drive down Highway 101 from San Francisco to Los Angeles has always offered a range of picturesque vistas and classic road trip stops. Foodwise, the attractions were considerably harder to find.
That was then. This is now — and Arroyo Grande, a small, unassuming town smack in the middle of that Central California drive, has begun surprising even the most sophisticated palates. Just south of Pismo Beach, AG — as the locals call it — has become a foodie destination of its own, utterly weekend-worthy and definitely worth the caloric splurge.
AG’s main drag, East Branch Street, has a charming Old West feel, with some shiny new additions. There are plenty of things to entice you there, but it would be a shame to miss out on the western side of the highway, an area that is starting to place Arroyo Grande on the list of must-visit, must-taste destinations for any traveling foodie. This weekend itinerary will get you started.
Friday evening
There is no question that Ember restaurant is AG’s beacon of culinary light. Ever since chef Brian Collins moved home in 2006, after a long stint at Berkeley’s Chez Panisse, followed by one at Los Alamos’ Full of Life Flatbread, his hearth-centric, seasonal menu and lovingly built dining space have gained a devout following of locals and visitors.
“There was a need for it here. There was really something missing,” says Collins, describing why he opened this “big city” restaurant in his small hometown. “If I don’t do it now, I’m gonna be a line cook for the rest of my life, or working for someone else,” he recalls thinking, as he launched what then seemed a risky venture.
But from the start, Collins’ desire to create something with “a heart and soul” in an unlikely, previously cursed location has proved to be a smart move. Perhaps part of the appeal is his belief that “we all have an inner cave man. We just gather around fires. It’s part of our primal instinct.”
Walk in the door and the first thing you see is that fire — roasting prosciuttowrapped artichokes and crispy kale and sausage pizzas — front and center in the open kitchen. Limited hours and no reservations means this place is always packed. Even at 4:30 p.m. on a recent Saturday, there was a line out the door.
So put your name on the list, then head down the road a couple of blocks to another strip mall, home to one of the newer locations of Figueroa Mountain Brewing. This family-owned craft brewery began in the Santa Ynez Valley and has since spread to Westlake Village, Santa Barbara, Buellton and here. A pint of Hoppy Poppy IPA or Davy Brown Ale is an excellent way to bide your time while you wait for a table at Ember. Details: Ember Restaurant, 1200 E. Grand Ave.; www.emberwoodfire.com Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co., 1462 E. Grand Ave.; www.figmtnbrew.com
Saturday morning
Start your day almost exactly where you ended it, next door at Sweet Pea Bakery and Virtjuice. This single business block contains a sweet trio, and breakfast will not disappoint. Kelli Smithback got her start selling baked goods at the farmers market. When Collins opened Ember, he asked her
to take on the brick-andmortar next door. Pick out a fresh morning bun — which may remind you of Tartine’s famous orange flower water buns in San Francisco — or a pear Gruyere croissant to go with your coffee. Then head next door to the Virtjuice bar for a coldpressed cup of Respect juice — carrot, cucumber, kale, apple, celery and ginger — or a tropical Indian Summer smoothie. Grab a stool out front to enjoy the goodies in the sunshine, then head back into Sweet Pea for a cupcake to go. And be sure to grab a loaf of Little Red Hen artisan sourdough bread while you’re there. These loaves are available at the farmers market, but insiders know they can usually find a few loaves at Sweet Pea, too. The owners of Little Red Hen and Sweet Pea are BFFs.
Details: Sweet Pea Bakery and Virtjuice, 1200 E. Grand Ave.; www. sweetpeabakeryag.com and virtjuice.com.
Picnics and wine
If you think we’ve built this itinerary around your taste buds, you’re right. The Central Coast is home to hundreds of wineries, and there are some spectacular ones — with picnic facilities — just a few miles away. So head for the Rutiz Family Farms farmstand, a sweet little spot overflowing with organic produce, local products and charm, to load up your picnic basket. The Rutiz family is also a vendor at the famous Santa Monica farmers market, where many of Los Angeles’ top chefs shop. At the farmstand, you’ll find everything you need for a deluxe picnic, from goat cheese to passionfruit and almond brittle. If you didn’t snag a loaf of Little Red Hen bread before, get one here, along with an old cookbook from the free library box on-site.
One of the pioneer wineries in the Arroyo Grande Valley appellation is Talley Vineyards, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary. The Talley tasting room is grand, and the patio is a great place to linger and enjoy your picnic with a glass of Talley wine. Kynsi Winery is another option, right on the cusp of San Luis Obispo’s Edna Valley. Kynsi’s limited-production wines, including the flagship pinot noir, are not to be missed.
Details: Rutiz Family Farms, 1075 The Pike; www.rutizfarms.com
Talley Vineyards, 3031 Lopez Drive; www.talleyvineyards.com
Kynsi Winery, 2212 Corbett Canyon Road; www. kynsi.com
Saturday evening
After a long day of sunshine and wine tasting, a hearty meal is just the thing. And Mason Bar in the Village part of town is the perfect place. Sink your teeth into the chef’s burger, a lobster corn dog or a Grown-Up Grilled Cheese (another way to get a taste of that Little Red Hen bread) and wash it down with an old-school old fashioned or barrel-aged cocktail from the long drink list. Many of those are served, as you might expect, in Mason jars.
Details: Mason Bar, 307 E. Branch St.; www.masonbarag.com
Sunday morning
You may not be terribly hungry after this foodfilled weekend, but make sure you refuel at one last place before hitting the road. The Frutiland La Casa Del Sabor is hard to miss. Its bright yellow and green building practically screams “Stop here!” Head for the walk-up window and scan the menu with its dozens of tortas (all the size of your head), tacos that arrive on thick blue-corn tortillas, and a huge variety of aguas frescas. If you really must have a fancy brunch beverage, try the piña colada served in a whole pineapple. Toast your good fortune, and plan a return trip soon.
Details: Frutiland La Casa Del Sabor, 803 E. Grand Ave, Arroyo Grande