Epic chips — and some cardboard, too
Crispy, toasty and salty, potato chips are the iconic American snack — and dangerously addictive. They’re the perfect side to a sandwich or burger and so incredibly binge-worthy that no dieter should keep them in the pantry.
Made from just three ingredients — potatoes, oil and salt — potato chips have such vast appeal that new kinds of chips continue to multiply. Classic and original have been pushed aside to make room for Hawaiian-style, kettle-style and guiltfree versions, not to mention the multitude flavored with everything from cheese to truffles.
Flavored chips are fun, but for this feature, we stuck with plain salted chips, including original, Hawaiian and “kettle” chips, which are mistakenly thought to be more healthful. They’re not. Kettle chips differ only in the toasting process. Regular chips are toasted on a conveyor; kettle chips are dumped into oil in batches, which typically makes for a thicker, sturdier chip, perhaps with better browning.
Those looking for a “healthier” chip can find more than a few options — kind of. Despite claims of 30 percent less fat, it turns out that the nutritional gains of cutting fat and calories are negligible — 3 g fat and 30 calories per serving at best.
For this taste-off, chips were evaluated for flavor, crunch and overall appeal. The best have a delicate crunch, and taste like a fresh slice of real potato toasted to perfection. Bad chips are oily, under-toasted, crackly, tasteless — or mucked up with cloying added flavors.
Here’s the scoop on the best — and most unworthy — chips on store shelves. Nutrition details refer to a 28-gram serving, or 12-16 chips.
Kettle Brand Sea Salt
These large, thick, extra-brown chips have big potato flavor and are dusted with just the right amount of salt. 150 calories, 9 g fat, 115 mg sodium. A 5-ounce bag is $2.39 at Whole Foods.
Trader Joe’s Kettle Cooked Olive Oil
Even though these dip-worthy chips are slightly pale, they have a bold crunch and taste like fresh-cooked potatoes. 140 calories, 7 g fat, 120 mg sodium. 7 ounces is $1.99.
Sprouts Flavor No. 1 Sea Salt
Those who prefer a lighter style chip with a delicate crunch will appreciate these. They’re extra-toasty and less oily than most similar-style chips. 140 calories, 7 g fat, 120 mg sodium. 7 ounces is $1.99.
365 Kettle Organic Sea Salt
The sweet punch of golden brown potatoes makes up for the slightly oily flavor of these chips. 150 calories, 8 g fat, 115 mg sodium. 5 ounces is $2.29 at Whole Foods.
The Snack Artist Kettle Cooked Original
Thumbs up to these lightly browned chips. The oil flavor takes a back seat to the blast of toasted potato. 150 calories, 9 g fat, 90 mg sodium. 7 ounces is $1.99 at Safeway.
Tim’s Hawaiian Original Kettle Style
Distinctly different from kettle- and classic-style chips, these are oil-forward in flavor, but they are extra crunchy, with bold browned potato flavor. 140 calories, 9 g fat, 120 mg sodium. 8 ounces is $3.99 at Safeway.
Lay’s Kettle Cooked Original
There’s a reason why this company’s chips dominate the market. They’re a bit oily, but nicely caramelized. Note that the Lay’s Original are less appealing due to far too much salt and oil. 160 calories, 9 g fat, 90 mg sodium. 8 ounces is $3.49 at Safeway.
The Snack Artist Classic
Extra salty and crisp, these giant-sized chips are for those with a “Go big, or go home” mentality. 160 calories, 10 g fat, 180 mg sodium. 8 ounces is $1.99 on sale at Safeway.
Trader Joe’s Hawaiian Style Sea Salt
These light brown chips have good flavor, but they’re crackly instead of crisp. 150 calories, 8 g fat, 105 mg sodium. 7 ounces is $1.99.
Trader Joe’s Ode to the Classic
Slice your potatoes too thin and this is what you get: oily chips with little substance. These aren’t bad, but they’re not good, either. 150 calories, 10 g fat, 180 mg sodium. 10 ounces is $1.99. ½
365 Organic Sea Salt
Flat flavor makes these pale-style chips slightly less than ordinary. 160 calories, 10 g fat, 170 mg sodium. 5 ounces is $2.29 at Whole Foods.
Deep River Snacks Original Salted
A dry crunch followed by a granular texture mars what are otherwise good-tasting chips. 150 calories, 8 g fat, 95 mg sodium. 5 ounces is $2.59 at Sprouts. (½ a star)
Good Health Olive Oil
These brilliantly toasted chips look delicious, but the flavors — of stale oil and raw potato — are unpleasant. 140 calories, 7 g fat, 45 mg sodium. 5 ounces is $2.59 at Whole Foods. (½ a star)
Trader Joe’s Reduced Guilt Kettle Cooked
One bite begs the question: Why? Just skip the sugar in your coffee and eat a real chip. These tough chips have the texture of Pringles and so little flavor that they’re not worth eating. 120 calories, 6 g fat, 95 mg sodium. 7 ounces is $1.99. (No stars)
Cape Cod Kettle Cooked Original
Cut cardboard into ovals and cook it in stale oil. That’s exactly the flavor of these tiny, pale, inedible chips. 140 calories, 8 g fat, 150 mg sodium. 8 ounces is $3.79 at Safeway. (No stars)
Boulder Canyon Olive Oil Sea Salt and Cracked Pepper
Exactly why a potato chip needs a shot of white sugar is befuddling. The onion and garlic powder seal the deal, though, making for the worst chip in the lineup. 140 calories, 7 g fat, 160 mg sodium. 6 ounces is $3.39 at Whole Foods. (No stars)