The Mercury News

Enjoy a refreshing mango summer sipper

- By Elazar Sontag Correspond­ent Elazar Sontag, 18, is the author of “Flavors of Oakland: A Cookbook in 20 Stories.” Find Priya Indian Cuisine at 2072 San Pablo Ave, Berkeley.

Walking by its unassuming storefront, you might never guess that Berkeley’s Priya Indian Cuisine is home to some of the Bay Area’s best Indian dishes. When this family business opened a decade ago, Venkata and Parvata Seelam had already worked in a handful of local Indian restaurant­s; they knew what they were doing. Nitin, one of Venkata and Parvata’s sons, grinned as he recounted the madness that was Priya’s 2003 opening day. The restaurant offered free food, an offer met with such overwhelmi­ng enthusiasm, extra family was called in to help. Now, the children have their own jobs, but they still come in to help whenever they can.

Inside, the decor is warm and fun. Colorful metallic streamers, separated by the occasional hanging lantern, line the ceiling. Stone sculptures and potted plants, some real, some fake, fill the entrance. The South Indian lunch buffet boasts luxurious lamb, goat and curry dishes.

And did we mention the mango lassis? The story: This refreshing mango drink may be the most popular lassi in the States, but it is only one of many lassi variations. All lassis begin the same way, with yogurt and water. Some are flavored with honey, sugar, rosewater and mango or other fruits; others are savory, spiked with salt and warm spices.

Venkata usually makes the lassis at Priya, using yogurt she makes herself. Slightly tart and perfectly rich, it’s the foundation of all their lassis.

The trick: Refrigerat­e the drink; don’t serve lassi over ice, Nitin says. The drink is meant to be thick. When the ice begins to melt, it ruins the consistenc­y. Find mango pulp at local Indian markets. Venkata gets hers from Vik’s, an Indian market and chaat house on Berkeley’s Fourth Street at Channing Way.

 ?? COURTESY ELAZAR SONTAG ?? Craving something Indian to slake a thirst? Make mango lassi with help from the chef at Priya Indian Cuisine.
COURTESY ELAZAR SONTAG Craving something Indian to slake a thirst? Make mango lassi with help from the chef at Priya Indian Cuisine.

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