Coconut milk at its best — and its murkiest
It’s not milk and it’s not cream. It’s not even dairy. Yet coconut milk — the silky extract pressed from coconut meat — is every bit as rich and unctuous as heavy cream. Hugely popular, coconut milk is loaded with the kind of fat that makes for tender baked goods, rich Thai and Indian curries and creamy soups. The cream layer in non-emulsified coconut milks can even be whipped like cream.
Unlike coconut water, which is found inside young coconuts, coconut milk is made by grinding the meat of mature coconuts with water, then squeezing the pulp to produce a rich, viscous, opaque “milk” that’s packed with the sweet, floral, nutty flavor of coconut. As an added bonus, it may actually be good for you. Unlike dairy fat, the saturated fat in coconut contains lauric acid, which has antiviral and antibacterial properties. While it’s a saturated fat, it’s also believed to lower LDL.
Found on the international foods aisle of most supermarkets, coconut milk comes in three versions; coconut cream (think pina colada), coconut milk and light coconut milk, which is simply thinned with water. For this taste-off, we tested 14 regular, full-fat, unsweetened coconut milks, all from Thailand. Flavors varied wildly, with some tasting meaty and savory; others sweet and tropical. Consistency was all over the board. Some poured like milk. Others were so thick, we had to dig them out of the can.
Nutritional information on some cans is questionable — especially in regard to fat content. Additives spark more questions. Guar gum is used to keep the milk and fat emulsified (yet it doesn’t, for the most part), and sodium metabisulphite is a common preservative. Citric acid, methyl cellulose and polysorbate 60 also show up in some milks.
The best coconut milks are cake-batter thick, with clean, bold coconut flavor that lingers and few, if any, additives. The worst are funky, watered down liquids that taste more like the can than the tropical fruit.
Here’s the scoop on the best — and the murky mistakes. Nutrition details refer to a ¼ cup serving. All milks contain 1 gram of sugar or less, unless otherwise noted.
Trader Joe’s Organic Coconut Milk
An extra-bold punch of fruity coconut flavor and creamy, nongreasy texture push this budgetfriendly milk to the top of the list. No additives. 110 calories, 11 g fat. $1.69. ★★★★
So Delicious Culinary Coconut-Milk Original
Fresh, pure coconut aroma and flavor makes this slightly sweeter, extra-creamy brand irresistible. It’s delicious enough to drink straight up. Contains guar gum. 105 calories, 11 g fat, 2 g sugar. $2.69 at Whole Foods. ★★★★
365 Organic Coconut Milk
This silky milk has a pretty aroma, a touch of sweetness and a long, extra-nutty, almost almond-like finish. Contains guar gum. 90 calories, 9 g fat. $2.29 at Whole Foods. ★★★★
Thai Kitchen Organic Coconut Milk
Despite the understated flavor and aroma, this milk gets a nod for luxurious texture and fresh flavor. Contains guar gum. 90 calories, 9 g fat. $2.99 at Whole Foods and Sprouts Markets. ★★★½ stars
Sprouts Organic Coconut Milk
This extra-dense milk has understated aroma, but the flavor of fresh coconut milk shines through. Contains guar gum. 110 calories, 11 g fat. $1.99. ★★★
Chaokoh
A meaty, vegetal flavor with a coconut finish make this an interesting kitchen workhorse that would add layers of flavor to savory dishes. Contains sodium metabisulphite and citric acid. 113 calories, 11 g fat. $1.09 at Marina Market. ★★½ stars
Sunlee Brand
The sweet note in this slightly thin milk tastes like coconut chips. Contains metabisulphite. 90 calories, 12 g fat. $1.39 at Marina Market. ★★½ stars
A Taste of Thai Coconut Milk
This slightly acidic milk seems greasy and has an odd, nutty flavor that’s reminiscent of extract. Contains guar gum. 90 calories, 8.25 g fat, 2 g sugar. $2.29 at Whole Foods. ★★½ stars
Golden Star Coconut Milk
There is an appealing butteriness to this flavor-packed milk, but it has a slight sour note. No additives. 105 calories, 11.5 g fat, 2 g sugar. $2.19 at Safeway. ★★
Native Forest Organic Coconut Milk Classic
Undeveloped coconut flavor and a vegetal note make this gray-colored milk fine for infusing richness into savory dishes, but it’s a mistake to use it in sweet drinks or baked goods. Contains guar gum. 105 calories, 11.25 g fat. $3.19 at Whole Foods. ★★
Chef’s Choice
Unwelcome chalky, bitter notes detract from this otherwise silky, full-flavored milk. Contains sodium metabisulphite. 120 calories, 11 g fat, 2 g sugar. $1.39 at Marina Market. ★½ stars
JFC Coconut Milk
A pleasant sweetness makes this frothy milk a fine sip, but it has little coconut flavor. This milk takes the dubious prize for most additives: guar gum, carboy methyl cellulose, polysorbate 60, citric acid, sodium, sodium metabisulphite. 105 calories, 10 g fat. $2.99 at Safeway. (½ a star)
Richin Coconut Milk
This off-putting, ultra-thin milk tastes more like a can than a coconut. 68 calories, 8 g fat. Contains sodium metabisulphite. 79 cents at Marina Market. (No stars)
Caravelle Chaudoc
No aroma and the murky, funky flavor of dirty water puts this watery, Chaokoh lookalike in last place. 50 calories, 4.5 g fat. Contains sodium metabisulphite. $1.39 at Marina Market. (No stars)