Shopping the smart way for a handwoven rug in Turkey
Let me state my bias up front: I don’t trust rug dealers — those peddlers of carpets from places like Persia and Turkey. I admit my suspicion has been due to my ignorance. I know that some rugs, like some wines, are very valuable, and others are not. I am just not sure how to tell the difference — and don’t want to be bamboozled by swindlers with blackbelts in smokeand-mirrors.
My cluelessness began to lift six months ago, when my husband, DC, and I were on a cruise to the Greek Islands with a stop in Kusadasi, Turkey. Our cruise line had arranged for those interested to visit a rug shop and learn about the art of carpet weaving. “Let’s go,” I said. I wanted to know, once and for all, why some rugs cost as much as a car.
DC and I passed through the bazaar in Kusadasi, running a gauntlet of hectoring merchants. The rug shop was directly opposite a store with a lighted sign boasting “Genuine Fake Rolexes.”
Our group of about two dozen entered the rug gallery. Our guide — Hakan Zor, a fifth-generation Turkish carpet seller — led us through towers of piled rugs, then up a narrow staircase to a room with a large open wood-floored area where they could be unfurled and ogled in good light. Around the room’s edges were benches, presumably because once you hear the price you need to sit down.
In the middle of the room, a young woman sat before a loom weaving a silk rug. We settled onto the benches, and watched as she meticulously wove a fine, intricate pattern from 20 colors of handspun silk. She slid the silk threads down the vertical fibers on the loom (the warp), and tied off each one with a tiny double knot, and I mean tiny. This rug, Hakan told us, has 1,264 knots per square inch. After working her way across the row, she layered in the horizontal thread (the weft) to lock the stitches, all precisely trimmed to a uniform length. The warp and weft form the skeleton of the rug.
As she wove, Hakan explained the finer points of carpet weaving while his helpers served us a Turkish coffee so strong I felt my eyebrows sprouting. The weaver will take 14 months to finish this 18-by-30inch rug, Hakan told the incredulous group, as we watched her painstakingly practicing an art that dates back to the 5th century B.C. (I later learned that this pillowcase-sized rug sold to an Englishman for 11,000 pounds, or $13,750 U.S.) I was glad I was seated when DC leaned over and asked if we should get a rug for our house. “Have you lost your mind?” I said.
Join me next week to see how this visit ended.
Meanwhile, here are some ways to avoid getting scammed when shopping for a piece of fine art, fine jewelry or a high-end antique:
Study up. When n shopping for high-end items, there is no substitute for knowledge. The more you know about a category, the less chance that you will get ripped off.
Ask questions. Find n out what makes the piece special, where and how it was made and what is unique about the materials and the making of the piece, as compared to lookalikes.
Try it in your light. n Area rugs are the most difficult to pick out of context, since you need to nail style, color, motif, quality and size. The best way to do that is to see the rug in your room.
Choose a reputable n dealer. That the cruise line had endorsed this rug merchant gave him some credibility. Length of time in business (five generations) also matters. Alternatively, seek out dealers recommended by someone you trust, who does not have a financial interest. Get a certificate of authenticity and information about the purchase and its provenance.
Find out the return n policy. Buying investment pieces — art, rugs or antiques — overseas can be risky. Reputable sellers rely on word-of-mouth and repeat customers and so generally have liberal return options if a piece does not work out. Clarify the policy before buying. Paying by credit card may give you additional protection.