The Mercury News

Crispy or soggy triangles

- Jolene Thym Columnist

They look fun, smell fantastic and fit perfectly in the hand. But what’s inside that warm triangle of deliciousn­ess?

A few weeks ago, we shared the lowdown on some of the hot, cheesy appetizers found in supermarke­t freezer aisles. But the options were so numerous, we deferred two iconic triangles, Central Asian samosas and Greek spanakopit­a, to another day — today.

Samosas, a deep-fried snack found on nearly every Indian menu, are filled with a spicy mix of potatoes and peas, or various meats and spices. Made right, the crisp dumpling is packed with layers of warm Indian flavors. Done wrong, they’re oily with fillings that lack flavor — or with so little filling, you’d be hard-pressed to describe what’s in there.

The other famous triangle is spanakopit­a, those filo-wrapped triangles of herby, cheesy spinach. The best, of course, are crisp and delicious. The unfortunat­e ones are flat, soggy, leaky — and salty or stringy, to boot.

Here’s the scoop on the best of the bunch — and the worst. Appetizer sizes vary, so nutrition details here refer to a 60-gram serving, which can range from two to four pieces.

Nob Hill Spanakopit­a

These tasty, meticulous­ly wrapped bites are stuffed with an irresistib­ly rich, flavorful filling made with spinach, cream cheese, feta, caramelize­d onion and a touch of herbs. The delicate layers of buttered filo shatter into buttery, rich bits. 53 calories, 3 g fat, 90 mg sodium, 1.3 g protein. $4.48 for 12 at Raley’s. ★★★★

Sukhi’s Potato Samosas

Bold, spicy filling wrapped inside two layers of extra-crispy dough make for a warm, spicy, authentica­lly flavored bite. 230 calories, 13 g fat, 320 mg sodium, 4 g protein. $6.99 for 8 at Whole Foods. ★★★★

Papa Cristo’s Spanakopit­as

Those who prefer a less cheesy filling will appreciate these crisp, spinach-forward bites with their generous dose of dill. The filling is tucked into thin layers of whole-wheat filo coated in canola oil instead of butter. 160 calories, 10 g fat, 240 mg sodium, 4 g protein. $6.29 for 12 at Whole Foods. ★★★½

Whole Foods Spinach & Cheese Spanakopit­a

A generous sprinkle of pepper and lots of onion are welcome in these spinach-forward bites. The dough, however, needs a coat of butter for the triangles to brown in the oven. 110 calories, 5 g fat, 260 mg sodium, 4 g protein. $4.99 for 12. ★★★

Crispy dough wrapped around fine shreds of spicy chicken make for a pleasantly spicy nibble. More spices would make them even better. 120 calories, 4.5 g fat, 150 mg sodium, 7.5 g protein. $3.99 for 12. ★★★

Whole Foods Potato and Pea Samosas

The tasty mash of potatoes and peas delivers big flavor, but the dough bakes up tough, rather than crispy. 150 calories, 6 g fat, 320 mg sodium, 4 g protein. $2.69 for 8. ★★½

Signature Select Greek Style Spanakopit­a

Sour cream and onion provide a great backdrop to the spinach, but the minimal amount of filling inside too many layers of filo detract from the finished bite. 160 calories, 10 g fat, 210 mg sodium, 4 g protein. $3.99 for 12 at Safeway. ★★

Whole Foods Tandoori Chicken Samosas

Fans of tandoori chicken will be disappoint­ed by these artificial-tasting dumplings. The dough is nice, but the filling has way too much garlic and smoke flavor. 140 calories, 6 g fat, 290 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $2.99 for 8. ★

Trader Joe’s Mini Greek Spirals with Leeks & Feta Cheese

Pretty? Yes. But these floppy spirals are not exactly mini. They’re nearly all dough, with a mere touch of filling. Even worse, the dough fails to brown, unless you coat them with butter. 80 calories, 3 g fat, 140 mg sodium, 2 g protein. $2.99 for 12. ★ if you butter the top

Saffron Road Crispy Samosas With Vegetables

The trace amount of filling inside these nontraditi­onal filo pouches lack any trace of Indian flavors. 130 calories, 6 g fat, 180 mg sodium, 3 g protein. $6.49 for 12 at Whole Foods. ½ star

Fillo Factory Spinach & Feta Fillo Appetizers

These sour bites have precious little spinach and the ultra-dry filo falls apart in your hand. 143 calories, 7 g fat, 270 mg sodium, 4.5 g protein. $7.39 for 12 at Whole Foods. No stars

Trader Joe’s Spanakopit­a

Ridiculous­ly sour, stringy filling inside floppy, soggy dough that fails to brown makes this one simply inedible. 133 calories, 4.5 g fat, 350 mg sodium, 4.5 g protein. $3.99 for 12. No stars

 ?? THINKSTOCK ?? Greek spanakopit­a appetizers can be found in supermarke­t freezer cases, making them easy to serve.
THINKSTOCK Greek spanakopit­a appetizers can be found in supermarke­t freezer cases, making them easy to serve.
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