Treasure Island’s edgy new eatery
Mersea, the latest from Waterbar chef Parke Ulrich, serves comfort food in a unique setting
We don’t usually visit a restaurant when it first opens. Critiquing a brand-new anything, when it’s still working out its jitters, strikes us as wildly unfair. But we were so curious about Mersea, the casual new Treasure Island eatery from executive chef Parke Ulrich of Waterbar, we could hardly contain ourselves.
Thirteen recycled shipping containers? A military rapid deployment-grade kitchen? Two putting greens? Say what now?
We had to take a peek. Now we’re sharing that first look — and first bites — with you.
THE VIBE >> You hardly need a sign or street address to know that you’ve arrived at this hip, edgy eatery. Those 13 shipping containers — a nod to the bay’s shipping ports — form a pale green compound at one end of the island’s Great Lawn, framing epic views of the city skyline even when fog turns the Transamerica Pyramid and Salesforce’s new thermos-like skyscraper to misty silhouettes.
Stroll past the putting greens, bocce courts, succulent gardens and the outdoor tables that dot the crushed-rock expanse, and order at the window. Even on crazy-busy opening day — when what looked to be an entire busload of teenage French tourists disembarked here for lunch — there were plenty of spots to perch, indoors and out, while guests waited for food and gazed at that view. (Just be sure to dress warmly. You’re in the middle of the bay.)
Two of those 13 shipping containers have been transformed into indoor dining rooms, one with a bar where you can pick up your cocktails, wine or local brew — or very, very local brew. The drinks menu includes an IPA ($7) from Treasure Island’s Woods Beer Co. Floor-to-ceiling windows and roll-up glass-paned garage doors bring the outdoors in.
Several more containers house the military-grade kitchen. Looking for the loo? Those are in a shipping container, too.
THE FOOD >> Elevated, well-executed casual fare is the rule here. On opening day, a parade of plates bearing double stacked cheeseburgers ($11) and fish and chips ($12) — doused in a yeasted beer batter, the crispy haddock was served with piping hot fries — were clearly popular items. The P3 ($12), with its shaved pork shoulder, pepperoni and provolone, is what a Philly cheesesteak wishes it could be. (Sorry, Philadelphia!) The menu is still evolving, but other options include shio ramen, roast chicken and a variety of vegetable-forward salads and bowls.
It’s perfect for a casual, but out-of-the-ordinary date; a leisurely afternoon with friends; or a laid-back family outing. Allow extra time for hiking, biking or admiring the view.
GETTING HERE >> Mersea will be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, but call before you go. It’s early days, schedules may vary and there are no reservations. Expect a bit of a wait. Hiking or biking across the Bay Bridge? A shuttle runs every halfhour, from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekends, from the island’s vista point (at the end of the bike path) to the parking lot next to Mersea. Driving? You’ll find the restaurant at 699 Avenue of the Palms, San Francisco; www.mersea.restaurant.