The Mercury News

Companies get creative to find, train handicraft workers

High-end companies get creative to find workers to make their products

- By Vicky Hallett

It’s a simple test: Grab a pair of shoes and lace them up as quickly as possible.

Did you remember to skip every other hole as you crisscross­ed the upper? Did you maintain a level of tightness throughout? Did you prevent the laces from twisting? Did you treat the tongue tenderly?

If you can respond with a resounding yes, then you might just have the golden hands required to land a job making shoes for Louis Vuitton. All of the upscale brand’s stiletto-heeled boots, logo-covered loafers, calf-leather sneakers and shimmering sandals come from Fiesso d’Artico, a town between Padua and Venice on Italy’s Riviera del Brenta, a stretch of grand villas that’s been a footwear shopping destinatio­n since the 13th century. A few minutes away, you’ll find the Museo della Calzatura, a museum and archive dedicated to this storied history. (Yes, those 17th-century pointy black shoes were made around here, and so were Nicholas Kirkwood’s “Back to the Future”-inspired peep-toe booties.)

Once upon a time, local artisans passed their skills from one generation to the next, keeping well-heeled Venetians well heeled. But those legacies have gradually faded, leaving the luxury producers of the region scrambling to fill their workshops. At Manufactur­e de Souliers Louis Vuitton (that’s French for Louis Vuitton’s shoe factory), human resources manager Sabina Sergi’s task is identifyin­g potential employees. When she can’t poach from competitor­s, she recruits by word of mouth and at area high schools. Many arrive with little or no experience, she says, which is why certain aptitude tests — like that lacing one above — are used to discover raw talent.

For those who are hired, explains industrial director Paolo Secco, “There is a path. So they start from the most simple operation and then go through the other processes.” This onthe-job training, with veteran staffers teaching their co-workers, lasts for years.

Although taking an individual­ized approach has kept the factory chugging along, parent company LVMH — a multinatio­nal conglomera­te responsibl­e for 70 brands — recognizes that a lack of qualified artisans is an issue for every trade in the luxury spectrum. That’s why it developed a more-cohesive strategy for recruiting and cultivatin­g the next generation: the Institut des Métiers d’Excellence, or IME.

Since its debut in France in 2014, the program has

 ?? PHOTOS BY DAN SAUER — FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ?? Student Giovanna Scarano, left, learns the art of luxury shoe making during a workshop at Louis Vuitton in Fiesso d’Artico, Italy.
PHOTOS BY DAN SAUER — FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Student Giovanna Scarano, left, learns the art of luxury shoe making during a workshop at Louis Vuitton in Fiesso d’Artico, Italy.
 ??  ?? LVMH, the parent company of Louis Vuitton, started a program to train more artisans to make its luxury goods.
LVMH, the parent company of Louis Vuitton, started a program to train more artisans to make its luxury goods.

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