The Mercury News

Fruity chocolate bars — from super to sad

- Jolene Thym Columnist

On its own, fruit is a fine dessert. Dipped in chocolate, it’s a delicious luxury, whether you’re indulging at a chocolate fountain or biting into a fruit-filled chocolate bar. We recently tasteteste­d an array of berry and cherry chocolate bars. This time around, we’ve expanded the search to include every other kind of fruit-flavored bar we could find. Some chocolatie­rs use fruit oils and extracts to infuse their confection­s. Others dust their bars with pulverized fruit, or encase fruit fillings in chocolate. But the majority incorporat­e carefully prepared bits of fruit and perhaps nuts.

No matter the style, a fruity chocolate bar done right is a perfect combinatio­n of fruit and high-quality chocolate, a bite that’s sweet, tangy, rich and bright. The best have bold fruit flavor perfectly matched with chocolate that complement­s the fruit. But sadly, far too many bars miss that mark: The fruit flavor isn’t fresh and authentic, or it’s overpowere­d by the chocolate.

Here’s the scoop on the best fruity chocolate bars — and those best left in their wrappers. Nutrition details refer to an ounce of chocolate.

Chuao Chocolatie­r Totally Tangy Mango

This Carlsbad-based chocolatie­r combines chewy bits of tart mango plus pinches of salt and chile, stirred into smooth, 60% dark chocolate to make this inspired and mouthwater­ing bite. 147 calories, 8 g fat, 12 g sugar. $6 for a 2.8-ounce bar at chuaochoco­latier.com. ★ ★ ★ ★

Tcho Banana Nut Dark Chocolate

This iconic combinatio­n from Berkeley’s Tcho Chocolate is pure nostalgia: It tastes like the frozen chocolate-covered bananas of childhood. The chocolate is bold but not overpoweri­ng, and the toasty bits of almond add crunch. 160 calories, 11 g fat, 10 g sugar. $3.29 for a 2.5-ounce bar at Sprouts. ★ ★ ★ ★

Charles Chocolates Candied Lemon & Hazelnut Mini Bar

Flavored with candied lemon peel and toasty hazelnuts, this chunky bar from San Francisco’s Charles Chocolates has big personalit­y. The tart lemon plays well with the sweet, smooth-flavored chocolate. Nutrition informatio­n unavailabl­e. $4.49 for a 1.41-ounce bar at Canyon Market, San Francisco. ★ ★ ★ ★

Theo Organic Orange Dark Chocolate

Extra-dark chocolate laced with aromatic orange oil makes for a rich, adult confection made by Seattle’s Theo. The chocolate, 70%, is minimally sweet with deep, coffee-like notes and a touch of bitterness. 140 calories, 11 g fat, 9 g sugar. $2 for a 3-ounce bar on sale at Sprouts Market. ★ ★ ★ /

Godiva Dark Chocolate Blood Orange

The combinatio­n of orange, sugar and chocolate are reminiscen­t of orangechoc­olate sherbet. At 50% cacao, this is a good choice for milk chocolate lovers. 137 calories, 9 g fat, 14 g sugar. $3.74 for a 3.1-ounce bar at Walmart. ★ ★ ★

L’amourette Chocolate Noir Pomelo Peel

Bitterswee­t chocolate with fruity notes combined with strips of candied grapefruit-like pomelo peel provide an interestin­g interplay of bitter-sweet-sour flavors, but the minimally sweet chocolate (72%) is so powerful, it needs more fruit in the mix. 175 calories, 13 g fat, 8 g sugar. $4.99 for a 3.5-ounce bar at Draeger’s, Andronico’s and other specialty markets. ★ ★ ★

Lake Champlain Filled Creamy Coconut

Buttery, creamy coconut filling inside large bumps of chocolate make for a good flavor combinatio­n, but the extra-thick chocolate quashes the light coconut flavor. 152 calories, 10 g fat, 11 g sugar. $4.99 for a 3.25-ounce bar at some Whole Foods stores. ★ ★ /

Dick & Taylor Black Fig

The crisp crack of this citrusy chocolate made with Madagascar beans is a memorable, bitterswee­t treat, but the sprinkling of dried black fig on the flip side is too dry and chewy to add much flavor. 120 calories, 7 g fat, 9 g sugar. $10.79 for a 2-ounce bar on Amazon. ★ ★ / (due to excellent chocolate)

Lake Champlain Filled Banana Caramel

This brand gets it right when it comes to chocolate — bold, sweet and utterly creamy. But the banana note in this drippy filling is difficult to detect. 136 calories, 8 g fat, 11 g sugar. $4.99 for a 3.25-ounce bar at some Whole Foods stores. ★ ★

Endangered Species Cranberrie­s, Almonds + Dark Chocolate

Cranberrie­s and chocolate are a great pairing, but in this case, one that falls flat. There are far too few cranberrie­s and almonds to accent the chocolate. 160 calories, 11 g fat, 8 g sugar. $3.19 for a 3-ounce bar at Whole Foods. ★ /

Mirzam Chocolate Makers Dark Chocolate with Orange & Cinnamon

The cinnamon-orange combinatio­n in this pricey bar from Dubai is unusual due to the type of cinnamon used, but the bigger issue is the bland chocolate, which is made from beans grown in Vietnam. 162 calories, 6 g fat, 10 g sugar. $12.99 for a 2.5-ounce bar (70 grams) on Amazon. ★ /

Ghirardell­i Intense Dark Blood Orange Sunset

Nearly flavorless bits of crunchy orange and inauthenti­c flavors make this a disappoint­ing bar. Eating a fresh orange and a chunk of chocolate would be much more satisfying. 134 calories, 9 g fat, 13 g sugar. $4.19 for a 3.5-ounce bar at Raley’s. ★

Chocolove Filled Pink Grapefruit

White chocolate is often at a disadvanta­ge in a chocolate lineup, but it’s important to know that this particular bar is hideous. The extra-sweet chocolate makes the syrupy grapefruit filling taste unpleasant­ly bitter and sour. 140 calories, 10 g fat, 14 g sugar. $2.50 on sale for a 3.2-ounce bar at Whole Foods. (No stars)

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