The Mercury News

The best — and worst — fish sticks

- JOLEGE THYF Columnist

Fish sticks get a bad rap with adults. Those childhood memories of bland, floppy fish sticks served on metal trays are hard to forget. But those who give them a second chance may be surprised.

A handful of fish sticks can be a tasty, satisfying protein that’s fast and fairly healthy. They can be tucked into a taco, layered in a sandwich, tossed into a salad or piled into a casserole for a saucy dinner. That said, it’s important to start with fish sticks that actually taste good.

Nearly all fish sticks are made from Alaska pollock, a white, meaty fish that’s similar to cod and is both plentiful and sustainabl­e.

It’s the same fish used to make imitation crab. Look for fish sticks made with whole fish, instead of minced fish, and check the sodium content.

A bit of salt is good, but some are far more salty than they need to be — especially since they are typically served with a salty dip.

Great fish sticks have a thin layer of crispy coating that’s not mushy or oily. Inside is a chunk of fresh white fish that’s tender, juicy and flaky.

Bad fish sticks are pale, greasy and mushy. Worse still are the sticks stuffed with nothing more than a trace of unappetizi­ng, brown fishiness.

Here’s the scoop on fish sticks worth the freezer space and those that should be tanked. Nutrition info refers to 3½ ounces or 100 grams.

Trader Joe’s Lightly Breaded Fish Sticks

Fresh cuts of bright white fish inside a flavorful, minimally thick crust make these a stellar bite. The sticks are generous in size and bake to a golden brown. 195 calories, 10 g fat, 195 mg sodium, 12 g protein. $4.99 for 1 pound.

365 Whole Foods Breaded Fish Sticks

The flavor of baked fresh fish shines in these crispy sticks. The lack of uniformity in size is odd, but the flavor of the fish and delicate coating makes up for it. 219 calories, 10.5 g fat, 305 mg sodium, 13 g protein. $9.99 for 2 pounds.

Trident Seafoods The Ultimate Fish Stick

Despite the lack of seasoning of the fish inside, these large, toasty brown sticks are a good choice, especially for those who want to indulge in more than a few sticks. 200 calories, 9 g fat, 365 mg sodium, 14 g protein. $12.99 for 4 pounds at Costco.

Starfish Gluten Free Panko Breaded Fish Sticks

Tons of salt and an odd mix of flours, which turns gummy instead of crispy, detract from an otherwise chunky and moist bite of fish. The hint of garlic is a plus. 190 calories, 6 g fat, 490 mg sodium, 11 g protein. $5.99 for 9 ounces at Whole Foods.

Gorton’s Whole Fillet Fish Sticks

As handsome as these hefty sized sticks are, the crust is mushy and salty. The fish inside however, is deliciousl­y sweet and fresh. 217 calories, 9 g fat, 406 mg sodium, 9 g protein. $5.99 for 19 ounces at Safeway.

Van de Kamp’s Crunchy Breaded Fish Sticks

The crunchy texture is great, but the sticks are so thin, they look like french fries, and the minced fish inside tastes fishy. 242 calories, 10.5 g fat, 463 mg sodium, 10.5 g protein. $7.99 for 24.6 ounces at Safeway.

Ian’s Gluten-free Fish Sticks

The extra-coarse cornmeal coating on these small, dry sticks gets crispy, but it fails to brown, no matter how long they are in the oven. 218 calories, 10 g fat, 253 mg sodium, 9 g protein. $6.99 for 8 ounces at Whole Foods.

Gorton’s Value Pack Classic Fish Sticks

These narrow slivers of browncolor­ed fish bits taste like weekold fish dipped in used fryer oil. There is nothing good about these. 221 calories, 10.5 g fat, 347 mg sodium, 10.5 g protein. $4.50 for 24.5 ounces at Raley’s. (No stars)

 ?? GETTY IMAGES ?? Banish those childhood memories of limp fish sticks. The convenienc­e food has come a long way.
GETTY IMAGES Banish those childhood memories of limp fish sticks. The convenienc­e food has come a long way.
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