The Mercury News

Corn tortilla flips and flops

- COLUMNIST

Flour or corn? If your answer is corn, you’re in luck. This Taste-Off is for those of you who love tortillas and want the very best yellow corn tortillas you can find.

To be clear, it’s not a debate. Flour tortillas are excellent wrappers and preferred by some for all things. But the corn tortilla is nothing less than essential in Mexican cuisine. It’s the go-to for enchiladas, tacos, chilaquile­s, tostadas, flauta, chips — and a healthy, low-calorie wrap for just about any vegetable or protein.

Most store brands offer both white and yellow corn options, both good. We tasted our way through the yellow corn versions, which deliver a bold hit of corn flavor and decent kicks of fiber, magnesium and protein.

Uncooked, corn tortillas are dry, crumbly rounds that crack when folded. The microwave or oven doesn’t help. The only way to unlock the magic of a corn tortilla is to slap it on a grill or put it in a fry pan.

Cooked properly, corn tortillas can be crispy or chewy and flexible, soft enough to wrap around beans, scrambled eggs or all the fajita fillings you favor. The best corn tortillas have sweet, toasty corn flavor. The worst are dense, thick spheres of dry, preservati­ve-laden toughness that beg forgivenes­s.

Here’s the scoop on the best yellow corn tortillas — and the ones you won’t want to touch. Nutrition info refers to 47 grams, which is one to two tortillas, depending on size and thickness.

Trader Joe’s Yellow Corn Tortillas

Sweet corn flavor and great texture earn these top marks. Made with only corn, water and lime, these are pliable, tender and authentic. 84 calories, 0.8 g fat, 1.7 g fiber, 1.7 g protein. 99 cents for a 12-ounce bag of 24. \*\*\*\*

La Tortilla Factory Sonoma Organic Yellow Corn Tortillas

These generous-sized rounds are a win. They seem thick, but when heated on a griddle, they become light and chewy. 97 calories, 1 g fat, 2 g fiber, 2 g protein. $3.49 for a 12-ounce bag of 10 at Whole Foods. \*\*\*\*

La Tortilla Factory Organic Yellow Corn Tortillas

These popular tortillas have impressive corn flavor, but they separate into layers when warmed. 94 calories, 0.8 g fat, 1.6 g fiber, 1.6 g protein. $1.50 on sale for an 8.46-ounce bag of 8 at Raley’s. \*\*\*/* Mi Rancho Organic Yellow Corn Tortillas

These extra-thick tortillas taste great, but they’re a bit too tough and chewy, and they blow up like balloons on the grill. 100 calories, 1.4 g fat, 1.4 g fiber, 2.8 g protein. $4.19 for a 9.3-ounce bag of 8 at Safeway.

Guerrero Yellow Corn Tortillas

Flat flavor and the aroma of preservati­ves earn these tasteless rounds a spot on the “don’t buy” list. They will do in a pinch, but they won’t add flavor to any plate of food. 100 calories, 1 g fat, 2 g fiber, 2 g protein. $2.28 for a 4.16-pound bag of 80 at Walmart. \*/*

Mission Yellow Corn Tortillas

Uh-oh. Too many preservati­ves turn these tortillas bitter. They’re inexpensiv­e — but not tasty. 100 calories, 1.5 g fat, 10 mg sodium, 3 g fiber, 2 g protein. $2.46 for a 25-ounce bag of 30 at Raley’s. \*/*

Raley’s Yellow Corn Tortillas

The sweet notes and distinct lack of corn flavor in these pale tortillas make them substandar­d in every way. 90 calories, 1 g fat, 20 mg sodium, 3 g fiber, 2 g protein. $1.38 for a 10-ounce bag of 12. \*

Food for Life Sprouted Yellow Corn Tortillas

Kudos for attempting to make a healthy tortilla, but these are super salty, flat, hard and small — and they mold fast. 120 calories, 1.5 g fat, 55 mg sodium, 2 g fiber, 2 g protein. $4.49 for a 10-ounce bag of 12 at Sprouts. (No stars)

 ?? GETTY IMAGES ?? Yellow corn tortillas offer plenty of toasty corn flavor.
GETTY IMAGES Yellow corn tortillas offer plenty of toasty corn flavor.
 ?? JOLENE THyM ??
JOLENE THyM

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