The Mercury News

Ground ‘meat’ that you may grow to enjoy

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No, plant-based ground “meat” is not the same as a bite of juicy, pink ground beef. But for those willing to compromise, the faux stuff can be an impressive swap, packed with a surprising punch of beef-like umaminess.

Made with either soy or pea protein, non-meat stand-ins for ground beef are multiplyin­g fast — and for good reason. They’re low in saturated fat, high in fiber and have as much protein as meat.

The downsides? First, the price. A pound of uncooked, plant-based protein runs $6 to $9. And these proteins are highly processed and have long lists of ingredient­s, including various fats, fillers, stabilizer­s, colors, etc.

There are basically two versions of ground. One is made from soy, the other from fractionat­ed yellow peas, a legume billed as drought-tolerant, non-GMO and non-allergenic. Fractionat­ing separates the peas into starch, fiber and protein. That protein is used in everything from nondairy ice cream to mac and cheese.

The first trick of plant-based ground,

it seems, is finding it at the market. It might be in the freezer section. Or the meat department. Or the dairy case. Or the produce section. The second issue is working with it. It’s a super perishable, sticky substance that doesn’t behave at all like ground beef. Most brands require timed cooking, as undercooke­d pea protein is super mushy and, with the exception of one brand, the color inside doesn’t change when heated.

Great plant-based ground looks like unseasoned ground beef and cooks up chewy, tender and moist. Bad plantbased brands look like cat food and smell just as bad.

Here’s the scoop on the delicious, meaty plant-based ground proteins that are just as tasty as their animal-based counterpar­ts — and the smelly, overproces­sed ones to avoid. Nutrition info refers to 4 ounces.

Impossible Burger Made From Plants

This block of soy-based “meat” is an incredible impostor — it tastes like a juicy bite of ground beef. It’s chewy, flavorful and appetizing, thanks to deep red coloring, courtesy of beet juice. 240 calories, 14 g fat, 370 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 19 g protein. $5.99 for 12 ounces at Trader Joe’s. \*\*\*\*

MorningSta­r Farms Incogmeato Plant-based Ground

Bold beef flavor and chewy texture make this a great swap for meat. Less salt and more moisture would make this soy-based frozen option perfect. 260 calories, 16 g fat, 400 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 20 g protein. $6.36 for 12 ounces at Target. \*\*\*/*

Beyond Meat Plant-Based Ground

This pink-colored, pea-based protein tastes like a grilled burger — but it’s mushy inside. This would be best served in crumbled form. 260 calories, 18 g fat, 350 mg sodium, 9 g sugar, 20 g protein. $7.01 for 1 pound at Whole Foods. \*\*\*

365 Whole Foods Meatless Plant-Based Ground

Even though this tastes like peas, the chewy texture and appearance make it a fine choice for highly seasoned dishes such as tacos or sauces. 210 calories, 13 g fat, 350 mg sodium, no sugar, 20 g protein. $7.69 for 14 ounces. \*\*/*

Open Nature Plant-Based Ground

Anyone looking for a pea-based meat with a big smoky punch might enjoy this option. It’s over-seasoned, but a good sear gives it a pleasant, beef-like texture. 250 calories, 17 g fat, 460 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 20 g protein. $7.99 for 1 pound at Safeway. \*\*

Good & Gather Plant-Based Ground

This pea-based protein scoops like cat food and smells rank — and it’s unappetizi­ngly brown. It’s also over-seasoned and mushy. It’s edible, but why would you? 270 calories, 17 g fat, 460 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 20 g protein. $7.69 for 1 pound at Target.

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufactur­ers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespicky­eater@gmail. com.

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