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Harissa is a versatile condiment made with roasted sweet bell peppers and hot chiles

- By Lynda Balslev Columnist

If you’re looking for a condiment that multitasks and tastes stand-alone delicious, then look no further than harissa. Harissa is a smoky red pepper sauce traditiona­lly used in North African cuisine. You may know it as a fiery one-note paste sold in a tube or as a jarred red sauce with a salsa consistenc­y.

Essentiall­y, harissa is a paste or puree of red peppers and chiles combined with other ingredient­s, such as garlic, citrus and spices. Its nuances, heat and flavor will vary from cook to cook, influenced by the choice of peppers and aromatics.

This recipe is the harissa sauce I have been making for years, and it’s positively addicting. It’s an extremely versatile condiment; I use it on just about everything. I combine roasted sweet bell peppers with fiery chiles for a balance of smoke, sweetness and heat. The heat is intentiona­lly kept at a moderate level to prevent the sauce from overpoweri­ng everything it touches. I add a dollop of tomato paste, which lends a hint of fruity acidity while helping to thicken the sauce and round out the flavors.

This sauce is a welcome addition to the summer picnic table. When making the sauce, be sure to toast and grind the whole seeds. This extra step imparts a fantastic flavor to the harissa, which is deeper than if you use pre-ground spices. For best flavor and consistenc­y, roast fresh peppers. If using jarred roasted peppers, be sure to drain them well.

Note that the finished sauce will be soupier and sweeter with jarred peppers than if you roast your own peppers. If you prefer more heat, you can choose not to seed the chile peppers — it’s up to you!

The harissa sauce will keep in the refrigerat­or for up to one week. The flavors will develop once they’ve had a few hours or a day to meld. While you’re at it, you might want to make a double batch. Chances are that it will be gobbled up.

Harissa

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

INGREDIENT­S

2 large red bell peppers 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

2 red jalapeño chiles, seeded, coarsely chopped

2 garlic cloves 1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 tablespoon olive oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

Grill the whole peppers over high heat until evenly charred, turning as needed. If using an oven, halve the peppers. Place skin-side up on a baking tray and broil until the skin is charred. Transfer the peppers to a bowl and cover. Let steam for 10 minutes, then peel away the skin, remove any ribs and seeds, and coarsely chop.

Toast the cumin, coriander and caraway seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until aromatic and beginning to pop, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a mortar with pestle or a spice grinder and grind the seeds to a fine powder. Combine the peppers, seeds, chiles, garlic, tomato paste, oil, salt and black pepper in the bowl of a food processor. Process to blend. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to a jar and refrigerat­e until use. The flavors will develop with time. Store for up to one week.

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 ?? COURTESY OF LYNDA BALSLEV ?? Made with roasted sweet peppers and fiery chiles, harissa will wow at your next backyard barbecue.
COURTESY OF LYNDA BALSLEV Made with roasted sweet peppers and fiery chiles, harissa will wow at your next backyard barbecue.

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