Too much zucchini? Make savory pancakes, Middle Eastern style
The thought of pancakes may conjure up an image of a mile-high buttermilk stack oozing with maple syrup. While many people love a sweet Sunday morning pancake, the resulting crash-and-burn sugar rush can leave one feeling tired rather than energized. Middle Eastern vegetable-based pancakes offer a savory, nutritious alternative to the syrup-laden tradition.
Enter the Middle Eastern savory pancake called ijeh, popular in Syria, Palestine and Lebanon. The original recipe for these pancakes came from a need to use up huge bounties of fresh summer zucchini. (We can relate.)
Traditionally, these pancakes are deep-fried like fritters. If you go that route, it’s best to use an oil with a low smoke point — like avocado oil, rather than olive oil. But you can keep this vegetable-based dish a little healthier by pouring the batter on a lightly greased griddle instead and cooking them like pancakes.
Avoiding gluten? No problem. The recipe calls for a small amount of white flour, but you can substitute gluten-free or low-carb flours. Almond meal or chickpea flour yield amazing results. The chickpea flour gives the pancakes a flavor similar to falafel, but without the deep-fried crunch. Almond
flour gives them a rich and mildly nutty flavor.
You can eat ijeh plain — the traditional way — but feel free to expand the flavor profile and cultural appeal by experimenting with different herbs and savory toppings.
The recipe below uses traditional parsley and mint in the batter, but you can add basil, chives, dill or any other fresh herb you have on hand — or make a pancake “bar” with different toppings. A dollop of creme fraiche, smoked salmon and fresh dill turns these pancakes in a lovely blini direction.
Give them some Italian flair with fresh oregano, marinara sauce and a sprinkle of mozzarella right on the griddle, so the cheese melts before serving. Go south of the border with some cilantro in the batter, and serve the results with salsa and sour cream. A dab
of hummus? A drizzle of tzatziki sauce? Yes and yes.
Summer Harvest Pancakes (Ijeh) Makes about 10
INGREDIENTS
3 cups shredded zucchini (approximately 2 large) Salt
3 eggs, whisked
1 teaspoon baking powder ½ cup white flour (or chickpea flour or almond meal) ½ white onion, grated, squeezed dry in paper towel or cheesecloth
¼ cup Parmesan cheese, optional
2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
½ cup fresh parsley, chopped finely
Olive oil or avocado oil
DIRECTIONS
Shred zucchini using a box grater. Toss the shredded zucchini with a sprinkle of salt in a colander and drain for at least 30 minutes. Then use kitchen towels to squeeze the zucchini dry to
prevent the pancakes from becoming watery.
Add the whisked eggs to the zucchini, stirring to combine. Add the baking powder, flour, grated onion, Parmesan and fresh herbs. If the batter seems too watery, add a little more flour.
To cook the pancakes, add about ½ tablespoon of olive or avocado oil to a skillet or griddle set over medium-low heat. (If using an electric griddle, set the temperature at 375 degrees.) Once the oil is hot, drop ¼ cup batter per pancake into the pan and cook for 2 to 4 minutes per side until golden brown.
Bay Area food writer Blanche Shaheen is the author of “Feast in the Middle East, a Personal Journey of Family and Cuisine.” Follow her Feast in the Middle East cooking series on YouTube, and her food blog at www. feastinthemiddleeast. com. Watch a video demo of this recipe at youtu.be/
i2HsrR_Fbyc.