Pad thai, tacos and more: Why farmers are growing more cilantro than ever

You can use it to garnish street tacos or pozole. You can add it to pho or pad thai. You can consume its seeds, stems and leaves.

Cilantro, also known as coriander or Mexican parsley, is a staple in Latin American and Asian cuisines.

And California’s Central Coast is growing tons of it.

In the past 15 years, cilantro production in the Golden State has steadily increased. In 2019, the California Department of Agriculture reported producing 42,340 tons of the fragrant herb, totaling nearly $50 million in value.

That’s nearly double the amount in 2006, when the state yielded 24,101 tons of cilantro. Though known for producing the country’s almonds and lettuce, California grows more cilantro than any other state in the nation.

Bill Esparza, a food anthropologist and author of the book “L.A. Mexicano: Recipes, People & Places,” said the demand is because of the number of taquerias and Mexican-concept restaurants opening in California.

“Mexican food and taquerias have exploded. That’s really where the demand is,” he said. “It never has been this much.”

Most of California’s cilantro is grown in Monterey and Ventura counties, which provide cooler weather conditions needed for the delicate herb to thrive.

Ed Williams, agricultural commissioner for Ventura County, said cilantro is “a very popular product right now,” adding that it’s used regularly by Latino families.

Data released by the U.S. Census Bureau this year found that California’s Latino and Asian American communities increased in the past decade.

Since the last census numbers were released in 2010, the Latino population in California has grown by 1.6 million residents — an 11% increase. Meanwhile, the number of Asian Americans in California rose by 1.2 million, a 25% increase.

Korinne Bell, chief deputy agricultural commissioner for Ventura County, said the crop first entered the county’s top 10 revenue-producing crops in 2012 and again the following year. Since then, cilantro production in Ventura County remains steady, according to Bell.

Unlike celery and kale, which grew in popularity after new information about their health benefits was released, Bell attributes cilantro’s acclaim to changing consumer tastes and people’s willingness to try different spices or herbs in their foods. Television shows that showcase diverse ingredients and recipes, she believes, also could have popularized the herb.