The Middletown Press (Middletown, CT)
Restaurant owner Lo Monaco builds a following
From pizza delivery boy to successful restaurant owner, Vincenzo Lo Monaco builds a following
“I would like to request a recipe from LoMonaco’s Restaurant in Branford (990 W. Main St www.lomonacos.com 203-4819990). We were at a Communion dinner for my granddaughter Sofia. Five of us ordered Gamberoni Monachina — shrimp with mushrooms, wine, topped with mozzarella. All five of us thought it was delicious. We would love to have this recipe,” wrote Patricia Ludington, of North Haven.
Owner Vincenzo Lo Monaco and Chef Atlante Esposito were happy to share the recipe. It is one of the most popular items on the menu.
LoMonaco’s has been serving Branford and beyond for 32 years. Longevity seems to be common here. Esposito has been with the restaurant for 21 years and several other employees have been employed for at least a decade.
Vincenzo Lo Monaco’s interest in the restaurant business began when he was 14 and living in the Jackson Heights section of Queens, N.Y.
Every day, he stopped at a pizzeria to watch how the pies were made. It fascinated him. Of course, he had to eat a slice, too.
He asked the owner for a summer job and was offered a delivery position, He delivered pizza by bicycle.
This was OK, but young Vincenzo wanted to cook, so the owner allowed him to get his hands in the dough.
He told me his first pizza-making experience was a disaster and the owner said to stay in school because he didn’t think Vincenzo would be a good pizza maker. The boy proved him wrong. Fast forward and he worked at DeMatteo’s pizza in Hamden and then at Gabrielle’s (first in West Haven and then moved to Orange) where he learned how to cook beyond pizza.
It was at Gabrielle’s where Lo Monaco met the chef, Nicola Mastroianni, who later was to become his business partner.
The two own Bellini’s in North Haven.
Lo Monaco thanks his loyal customers for their patronage over the past three decades. The relationships he has developed over the years keeps him inspired to keep on cooking and running the restaurant.
A house specialty is Vitello “LoMonaco,” veal scallopine sautéed with pignoli and almonds, topped with Parma prosciutto, eggplant rollatini and mozzarella in a light champagne sauce.
Salmon Fruttasecca is a creative preparation of the fish that is sautéed with shallots, dried fruits, pine nuts, walnuts in a sweet Madeira reduction.
Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, you will find traditional Italian dishes as well as seafood and meat prepared with skill and imagination, and with prices that won’t empty your wallet.
Gamberoni Monachina
12 jumbo shrimp, peeled, deveined,
tail off (they use U-8 size) Flour for dredging
4 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1⁄3 cup vegetable oil
12 button mushrooms, diced
2 ½ ounces Rainwater Maderia wine 1 ounce Prosecco
16 ounces fish or clam juice
½ cup marinara sauce
Black pepper to taste
¾ cup mozzarella, shredded Chopped fresh parsley for garnish
Dredge shrimp in flour and then dip in eggs.
On stovetop, heat vegetable oil in an ovenproof sauté pan. Once oil is hot put, in shrimp and brown on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Remove shrimp and drain oil from pan. Set shrimp aside.
Put butter in pan and add diced mushrooms and sauté for a couple of minutes. Remove pan from stove and add Madeira and Prosecco. Put back on heat and add fish or clam juice, marinara and pepper to taste. Let liquid reduce for 5-7 minutes and put shrimp back in pan and cook for a minute.
Remove from heat and sprinkle with mozzarella and place ovenproof pan in a preheated 400 degree oven for about five minutes, until golden brown.
Garnish with fresh chopped parsley. Serves 3-4.
Desperately seeking
Kathleen Carlson, of Hamden, wrote, “The Village Restaurant in Litchfield makes a delicious acorn squash with a quinoa stuffing and coconut sauce. I’d love the recipe since it’s only offered on their special menu occasionally.”
⏩ Kathleen, I will check and see if the chef will share the recipe.
Culinary calendar
⏩ “Chefs of Our Kitchen” 2018 Series begin with: A culinary take on “This Is Us”: Siblings Elena Fusco, owner/founder of Bin 100 (Milford), Gennaro “Gerry Iannaccone, owner/chef at Goodfellas; and their nephew, Paul Iannaccone, co-owner/chef at Ristorante Lucé (Hamden) March 7, 6 p.m., Gateway Community College, 20 Church St., New Haven. 203-285-2617. $85. Tickets at http://bit.ly/2j24HH9. Enjoy a wine and hors d’oeuvres reception and then watch the chefs demonstrate the preparation of popular dishes from their restaurants, which will be served. Guests receive recipe cards signed by the siblings. The recipes demonstrated will be prepared by Gateway Culinary Arts and Hospitality Management students.
⏩ Consiglio’s Cooking Demonstration and Dinner: March 15, 6:30 p.m., Consiglio’s Restaurant, 165 Wooster St., New Haven, 203865-4489 (reservations required), $75 (beverages, tax and gratuity not included). Learn how to make saffron crab cake, winter fennel salad, three onion soup, pesto rubbed skirt steak pinwheels, chocolate pastry ravioli. Contact Stephen Fries, professor and coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, at gw-stephen.fries@gwcc.commnet.edu or Dept. FC, Gateway Community College, 20 Church St., New Haven, 06510. Include your full name, address and phone number. Due to volume, For more, go to stephenfries.com.