The Middletown Press (Middletown, CT)
JOYFUL NOISES
Taking in the sights and sounds of Machimoodus and Sunrise state parks
When Native Americans heard the unnatural noises, they believed they had angered their god Hobomoko. When Puritans arrived, they believed the noises that came from below were the Devil. Over the years that followed, people tried to solve the riddle of the unearthly sounds that haunted a hamlet in central Connecticut for centuries.
Welcome to Machimoodus — translated from the Native American language as “place of bad noises.” Today the area is known as Moodus, a village in East Haddam and home to the 300-acre Machimoodus State Park. During a recent early-spring visit, the only sounds I heard were bluebirds singing as they flew from tree to tree, the wind whispering through the hemlocks and osprey
screeching high above. Perhaps Machimoodus needs a new 21stcentury translation.
Much of historical Machimoodus has been preserved by the state Department of Energy and Environmental Protection within the park and the neighboring Sunrise State Park, the former home to Sunrise Resort, one of the many summer getaways in town that made the area the “Catskills of Connecticut.”
Before it was acquired by the state, the property known as Echo Farm was owned by industrialist Raymond Schmitt. He created the neighboring Johnsonville, a replica of an 18th-century Victorian village. For Johnsonville, Schmitt purchased a schoolhouse, chapel, general store and a livery stable, as well as a sternwheeler riverboat from Freedomland, a defunct New York amusement park.
Machimoodus is a popular state park for dog walkers, birdwatchers and horseback riders with its wide farm roads and fields and meadows. The park has stunning views of the Salmon River cove, the Connecticut River and the hills of central Connecticut. The state’s goal in purchasing the land for both parks was to “preserve important landscapes for both active and passive recreation as well as to protect sensitive landscapes in perpetuity.”
The main farm road takes visitors from the parking area to the top of 314-foot Mount Tom and the park’s “upper vista.” The vista offers a panoramic view of the Salmon and Connecticut rivers and the swing bridge connecting East Haddam and Haddam.
The trail then steeply descends through a hemlock and oak forest and across a wooden bridge to the “lower vista” surrounded by a huge swath of fields and meadows, making the view even more imposing. Another series of trails brings hikers down to the banks of the cove and Salmon River, providing an impressive threetiered view of the river valley.
The lower vista trail, marked with purple blazes, connects to the 146-acre Sunrise State Park and its 4,700 feet of frontage along the Salmon River. The park was once known as Ted Hilton’s Hideaway, Frank Davis Resort and Sunrise Resort. For nearly a century, vacationers came to swim in the Olympic-size pool, sleep in rustic cabins, high-dive into the Salmon River and feast on renowned chocolate-covered eclairs.
After the state purchased the property in 2008 and failed to get anyone to continue the resort activities, all the buildings were demolished, leaving only a few islands of broken asphalt, an
overgrown tennis court and a couple of basketball courts overtaken by Mother Nature. Empty foundations outline what were dozens of cabins, the main office building and ballroom. The pool
was filled in and covered with wood chips.
There is a launching point for canoes and kayaks, and the trips along the Salmon River into the cove are scenic and need only easy paddling. Across the river are hundreds of acres within the Silvio O. Conte National Fish and Wildlife Refuge to explore.
As for the noises, scientists have determined that they are produced by the movement of tectonic plates along a fault line running deep underground. “Various legends and folk tales have passed through the generations about the noises that occur here,” according to a history of the park, “but in 1981 geologists with seismic gear in tow declared that ‘micro earthquakes’ were the cause of the rumblings. A local cave echoed the tremors loudly, especially loudly in the relative silence of pre-motorized societies.”
There’s a chance you may hear the noises that gave the area a nefarious reputation. But there is a greater chance visitors to Machimoodus will hear the happy and soothing sounds of Mother Nature in spring.
Sunrise and Machimoodus state parks, East Haddam
The bottom line: Both Sunrise and Machimoodus state parks showcase the beauty of the Salmon River and Salmon River Cove. Trails through Sunrise wind past remnants of the time when the land was used as a summer resort. Paths through Machimoodus include several impressive views over the river and neighboring hillsides from the top of Mount Tom.
Difficulty level: Easy to moderate. The ascent to the overlook on top of Mount Tom is a bit strenuous and rocky. There are
plenty of easy trails around the ponds and fields.
Total mileage: There are more than five miles at Machimoodus and several miles of trails marked and unmarked around Sunrise.
Directions: Machimoodus is located at 128 Leesville Road. From the intersection of routes 82 and 149 in East Haddam follow Route 149 north 3.8 miles to its intersection with Route 151. Turn left (west) on Route 151 and follow for 1.2 miles to the park entrance on the left. For maps of the parks, go to tinyurl.com/machimoodus.
Pet friendly? Leashed dogs on a maximum 7-foot leash are allowed as well as horseback riding.