Questions abound when remodeling basement
We are currently developing our basement with a full bathroom. We have a few questions for you.
1) The current rough-in vent ducting [for the fan] by our builder is almost the entire width of the house away (35+ feet) from the bathroom. It looks like it was done well with proper materials and a straight run completely to outside but we are concerned that this distance is too far to be effective. We had one person tell us to move the venting to a closer wall but that would entail cutting a hole in the stucco and running the vents against the floor joists. We would rather not cut into those nor lower the ceiling. What do you think?
2) We have covered the bathroom vent opening with chicken wire when we built the deck to stop any rodents getting into the house as this vent is situated under the deck. Do you think this wire would compromise the efficiency of the fan?
3) We want to use sound-proofing (Roxul) insulation in the ceiling however it is tricky to fit it around the venting and other pipes as well as keeping it up. Should the insulation be sealed with poly and then metal straps to ensure it stays up where it needs to be? What is your recommendation?
4) Please advise how best to decide whether a drop-down ceiling with tiles or a dry-walled ceiling is best for a basement. I like the ability to have access to the basement pipes and vents if needed down the road however I have no idea how to finish it nicely around heating registers in the ceiling and in-take vents. Would dry-wall be best in the basement bathroom ceiling rather than a drop-down ceiling with tiles?
We have been hiring the trades people to do the big jobs but we would like to have an idea of the best options before we give directions to anyone we hire. - Mary Louise L.
Sounds like a big project! Here are your answers, in the order you posed them:
1) Your builder will have to answer this one, based on the power of the fan. He may need to install a larger CFM fan to compensate for the distance. You can also check with the fan manufacturer to get the specifications for maximum vent runs.
2) At the exterior end of vent, you need to have a cap with a spring-loaded damper. The damper will open when the fan is in operation, allowing full vent capacity, and will close when the fan is off, preventing anything from getting in.
3) Roxul (rock wool) insulation is typically a friction-fit batt insulation that's designed to stay in place on its own until it's covered. However, if you have odd joist spacing or odd pieces that are not staying in place, there are friction-fit metal rods you can use that have sharp ends and can be stuck between the joists to hold the insulation up, or you can simply staple nylon string across the bottom of the joists as needed.
4) It usually comes down to a choice between looks, access, and headroom. Dropped ceiling tiles have the advantage of providing access to the multitude of pipes, ducts, and wires that are typically present on a basement ceiling, and can be a simple solution to not having to install soffits or other dropped framing in order to cover low-hanging pipes. However, a dropped ceiling hangs down farther than drywall that's applied directly to the ceiling joists, so headroom may become an issue. And some people prefer the look of painted drywall to that of ceiling tiles, so that's a consideration as well. (Your ceiling installer will know how to properly set the grids and tiles around the vents). _________________________ Have a home repair or remodeling question for Paul? He can be reached by email at improvingyourhome@ykwc.net.