The Morning Call (Sunday)

Union and Finch features exceptiona­l modern fare

- By Madelyn Dundon

Happy summer, food lovers of the Lehigh Valley! I’ve returned for a review of another local wonder.

Allentown’s Union and Finch (1528 Union

St.) — an Instagram discovery of mine — is here to stay. I stalked their social media account and website for weeks before finally making it in.

On the morning of my much-anticipate­d visit, I spotted a post announcing that a percentage of the restaurant’s sales that evening would assist a student-athlete at Allen High School. She is the first wrestler from the school to qualify for the annual USA Wrestling National Championsh­ip in Fargo, ND.

Union and Finch shared, “We just came to know Shelly last week and she’s a special kid that just needs some help to keep pursuing her dream.”

Besides the exceptiona­l menu featuring modern American fare, this is another solid reason to dine here. They seem like generous folks who care about their community. Need I say more?

Well, this is a review, so, yes.

Setting and décor

Formerly J.P. O’Malley’s, the new inhabitant­s of this neighborho­od favorite spot have maintained the cozy, old-fashioned feel while creating an upscale sensation.

I asked my date, a former wrestler who was equally impressed by the Allen athlete’s achievemen­ts, about his first impression of the restaurant. “Rustic … but modern … and Americana,” was his take. That sums it up pretty well.

An old-fashioned long bar lines the left of the space, and the dining room is just around the corner. It’s large enough to seat about 12 parties. The walls are pure white and on them hang quirky/endearing photo portraits of American life, from coast to coast.

It’s important to note in my reviews, when it’s the case, the establishm­ent is immaculate­ly clean!

Service

For a Wednesday night, I was pleased to see that Union and Finch was busy, especially in light of the fundraisin­g event.

I called ahead for a table, just in case. I would advise doing so. Full bar seating is available — a glimmer of promise/excitement as the world slowly reopens.

Service was attentive and quick, but I never felt rushed. The whole experience was laid back, and one could sense that everyone was enjoying the evening. Tasting the food they serve, it would be impossible not to.

Food

What is Modern American cuisine? It’s wings,

burgers, pasta, and nods to all the flavors that make our country the glorious melting pot that it is.

Union and Finch delivers a strong lineup of national favorites. There is something for everyone. But before you choose what to eat, which is a difficult task, be sure to order a cocktail or a bourbon or a draft beer.

I had the Blueberry Smash. And no, I did not order it just for the name. Since it was #WingWednes­day, we had to go for the chicken bites to start. I recommend the bourbon BBQ rubbed variety for those (like me) who can’t handle too much heat.

My date ordered the burger with truffle fries. And yes, I am quietly moaning as I write this. That is how much flavor they pack into a burger.

I had the Beet Salad with mesclun, goat cheese, caramelize­d white onion, balsamic reduction and white balsamic vinaigrett­e.

Our server confirmed my suspicion that the crab cake was worth trying. Their take on the seafood classic is light, savory, and tastes like summer.

As an unapologet­ic chocoholic, I tried the triple-layer dark chocolate cake, baked in-house. The frosting is rich and not too thick. The cake is light and the two balance each other out deliciousl­y.

Keep tabs on their dessert of the week by consulting Union & Finch’s Instagram or Facebook feeds. Trust me.

The bottom line

My date, who is new to the Lehigh Valley, proclaimed that Union and Finch is on the top of his list of places he has eaten.

I must agree.

I don’t think I’ve ever felt more patriotic in a restaurant. Prints of retro gas stations and Alaskan mountain peaks hang all around. On our visiting night, every order was helping a young student-athlete accomplish an incredible thing for her school and her family. That sounds like The American Way to me.

UNION AND FINCH

Where: 1528 W Union St., Allentown

Phone: 610-432-1522 Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday; 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday

Prices: Starters $7.00-13.00, entrees $17.00-27.00

Bar: Full bar

Credit cards: Yes Handicap accessible: Yes

 ?? MORNING CALL ASH BAILOT/ ?? Union and Finch owner Shahnaz Hannah, left, and chef Jenny Shull, right, hold beet salad and Tikka Masala at the restaurant on June 9.
MORNING CALL ASH BAILOT/ Union and Finch owner Shahnaz Hannah, left, and chef Jenny Shull, right, hold beet salad and Tikka Masala at the restaurant on June 9.
 ?? ASH BAILOT/MORNING CALL PHOTOS ?? Union and Finch is an American-style restaurant located at 1528 West Union Street in Allentown. They serve lunch and dinner 6 days a week and brunch on the weekends.
ASH BAILOT/MORNING CALL PHOTOS Union and Finch is an American-style restaurant located at 1528 West Union Street in Allentown. They serve lunch and dinner 6 days a week and brunch on the weekends.
 ??  ?? The beet salad, made of roasted beets, mesclun, goat cheese, caramelize­d onions and balsamic reduction.
The beet salad, made of roasted beets, mesclun, goat cheese, caramelize­d onions and balsamic reduction.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States