Serenity nearby on St. John in US Virgin Islands
It’s easy to forget that the Virgin Islands are a part of the United States.
St. John in particular is so lush and untouched that it feels worlds away from the States, yet, in reality, it’s just a three-hour flight from Washington, D.C. One of the most surprising facts about the smallest of the three main Virgin Islands is that while St. John is just 20 square miles, two-thirds of it is protected National Parks land.
After landing at the St. Thomas Airport, we took a 45-minute boat ride to
St. John, which in and of itself was a treat. The warm winds, blue waters and friendly sea captain ready and waiting with refreshments made it feel like an excursion.
Once we arrived, it was clear that this isn’t a tourist-centric destination. To that point, there are no all-inclusive resorts in St. John. This island offers both lush, mountainous terrain and stunning, white sand beaches. Beaches like this anywhere else in the world would certainly be overrun with resorts and tourist traps.
Instead, St. John has managed to keep the island a pristine destination, one that embraces and openly shares its rich history, parts of which can be found on nearly any given hike. It’s the blend of cultures, particularly African, European and Caribbean; unparalleled natural beauty; warm, friendly people; and most importantly, the ability to soak it all in, without crowds and pretenses, that make this truly a special place. The fact that delicious Painkiller cocktails can be found at nearly every establishment doesn’t hurt, either.
I spent three days glamping at Cinnamon
Bay Bay Beach & Campground,
an eco retreat in
St. John located directly on the beautiful shoreline of Cinnamon Bay Beach. Reopened in November 2022 after being devastated by Hurricane Irma in 2017, Cinnamon Bay has a renewed focus on sustainability. Working alongside local communities to ensure that the environment and continued growth of the region stay top priority, Cinnamon Bay’s goal is to provide travelers the opportunity to be immersed in the untouched scenery of St. John.
Here are three things I learned while staying here.
Staying at an eco resort doesn’t mean roughing it:
Cinnamon Bay Beach & Campground is a welcome alternative to the all-inclusive resorts that overrun much of the Caribbean. Being on a
campsite allowed me to feel a connection to the place I was staying at. I was absorbed into the fabric of the island in a way that can’t be done by staying in a hotel room.
On these campgrounds are several types of accommodations ranging from eco tents, which offer a fan, a light, an electric outlet, a queen-size bed, linens and a porch; group tents that are perfect for groups of four; bare sites with tent rentals that include comfort kits; and the recently opened cottages, which are concrete buildings that offer most comforts a hotel room would have.
In addition, there’s an on-site restaurant, the
Rain Tree Cafe, that serves breakfast and dinner daily, while lunch is served at a food truck. When it’s not serving food, the dining
space is great for relaxing, group activities or catching up on screen time — it’s one of the few places on-site with Wi-Fi.
There are four bathhouses with sinks, showers and flushing toilet stalls. As someone who needs her creature comforts, I was pleasantly surprised that I had everything I wanted despite not being in a hotel.
You don’t have to spend a lot to experience exotic destinations:
Most people assume you have to spend tons of money on a vacation to the U.S. Virgin Islands. For the two-person eco tent I stayed in, the average is $175 a night for an accommodation literally steps away from one of the most gorgeous beaches I’ve ever seen. Guests who prefer to be more cost-efficient can opt for a bare site for $50.
Because St. John is so beautiful, you don’t need to splurge. You can rent affordable kayaks at the Cinnamon Bay campsite to experience the crystalclear waters of the Virgin Islands. This area is known for its sea turtles, and here we spotted three species with ease: the Hawksbill, green and loggerhead sea turtles. The turtles’ habitat in Cinnamon Bay remains undisturbed, unlike more popular snorkeling spots in the area. It was a treat seeing them so close-up and unbothered.
Cinnamon Bay Loop Trail is adjacent to the property and is a non-strenuous 1-mile trail that explores a historic sugar plantation culminating in stunning views of the surrounding islands and sea. A short drive away is St. John’s most famous beach and one of the most photographed in the world.
Trunk Bay, a quarter-mile of white sand, was one of the most spectacular places to spend the afternoon sipping Painkillers.
Another incredible and worthwhile hike was at Reef Bay Trail. This lush trail is open to the public and features petroglyphs dating back to 900 to 1500 A.D.; magnificent ruins of the Reef Bay Sugar Mill; and dense jungle terrain. On this trail we made several stops to cool off at gorgeous rushing waterfalls. The trail culminated at Reef Bay, an untouched stretch of beach that looks like it’s straight out of a postcard. It makes sense, considering it’s inaccessible by car.
If being one with nature isn’t your thing, this can push your boundaries:
I consider myself to be outdoorsy, but not sleepunder-the-stars outdoorsy. While friends on the trip embraced being disconnected from their screens, I initially felt anxiety because of it. Similarly, while most people loved falling asleep to the cacophony of waves, birds, frogs, insects and rain, I felt an increased sense of stress.
It took some adjusting and I had to acclimate myself to being in a new environment. I focused on deep breathing and calming techniques to let go of the discomfort of being in such a secluded space. It took time, but once I let go of the sense of urgency to be connected, I felt great. Minus the bug bites — definitely bring bug spray.
There’s something special about waking up to the sound of crashing waves and being able to walk just a few feet out to feel that same cool water underneath your toes. At Cinnamon Bay Beach & Campground, you can do just that. The fact that this is on such a pristine beach is reason enough to push your boundaries.