Be wary of using bird seed husks in compost
We feed birds and compost. I rake up the seed under the feeders. Can I add this to my composter? (By the way, if your Mom and Dad had Dachshunds, then I was your “Family” doctor when you were a youngster!) Thank you.
— Gene Witiak
There are a few answers to this question. If the seeds are untreated, They can be added to the compost heap, but if not all the seeds were eaten, may result in unwanted weeds sprouting in the pile. Some seed treatment methods are quite safe, removing hulls so that all seed is edible or treating with heat to sterilize the seed. If a chemical treatment is applied, I would be wary of using the hulls in compost.
Sunflowers are a different matter. If you buy and feed hulled seeds, you have no problem. If you use seeds with hulls, you should know that sunflower seeds, in fact the entire plant contains chemicals that inhibit the growth of other sensitive plants. Also, sunflower seed husks take a while to decompose, about three years.
So, limited amounts of seed hulls will probably not affect your compost. However, large quantities of sunflower seed hulls can remain in the compost for years and may affect the ability of sensitive plants to germinate and grow in areas where the compost is utilized. Sunflower seeds can provide a weed suppressing mulch. I would however avoid compost with lots of sunflower seed hulls on beds where you will planting seeds.
(Dr. Witiak was, indeed, the doctor for my husband’s family dogs, a series of dachshunds. Fran remembers the kind and professional treatment Dr. Witiak provided for the dogs, all named Toby for some reason. They had a huge Bassett hound, Zeus, by the time I met Fran.)
Chomped arbs
I’d appreciate if you could advise us on saving an arborvitae with significant damage from deer eating it. There are actually several damaged, one more than the others. Our snow covered grass had the deer eating our bushes, PJMs and arborvitae. Although we did spray with deer repellent, it really didn’t help. We hate having to replace since we just planted them in the Fall. Thanks for your help,
— Linda G.
As I noted in the last few weeks, we are having a terrible time with deer damage this year. Especially noticeable is the damage to a row of arborvitae. In past years, the deer have ignored our “deer-resistant” Western Arborvitae like green giant, steeplechase and spring grove. This year they have devoured everything from the ground to the upper reach of the deer.
If the branches are totally devoid of greenery, dried out or really damaged, they are very unlikely to recover and should be removed. If there is some greenery, the branch may recover if you provide water, fertilizer and protection in subsequent years.
Repellent can be useful if applied at for to six week intervals and immediately after rain. Select repellents that contain eggs, something deer don’t like. However, it is much less effective in freezing temperatures.
Barriers are an option if you don’t mind the less than attractive view of trees wrapped in burlap, mesh or netting from base to about eight feet up. The wrap should be removed in the spring and reapplied in the late fall.
Climbing roses
What do you feel is the best variety of climbing roses ... preferably insect free and disease resistant?
— Susie.
I don’t grow roses anymore. Our yard has very moist soil and lots of shade. Additionally, Fran hates plants with thorns. However, I do appreciate the beauty of an arbor or trellis covered with wonderful, scented roses.
I consulted a few sources and selected a few from each source:
David Austin: Clare Austin, Mortimer Sackler, Gertrude Jekyll
Jackson & Perkins: Blaze of Glory, Lace Cascade
HG TV: Zephirine Drouhin, Cecile Brunner, Gertrude Jekyll
However, if you are looking for a care-free, disease-resistant and insect-free plant, I would not recommend a rose. Most require careful pruning, and preventative treatments for diseases and constant monitoring for insects.
In the garden
This week I hope the snow has melted enough that I can reach the late-summer blooming hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens and H. paniculata). These bloom on new wood and are pruned in late winter or early spring before the new growth emerges. As with all our plants this year, the hydrangeas have been eaten, but at least these may recover this year.
Week in the garden Planting
Start seed for: Leaf lettuce, peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes.
Finish sowing for transplant: Dahlia, larkspur, and portulaca. Next week start: Cucumbers. When the soil warms, plant bare root trees and shrubs. Make sure the soil is dry enough to work — Don’t dig or plant in mud.
Follow your schedule for starting seeds. Check packets for instructions such as start indoors four weeks before last frost date. Then, using a calendar, count back from your area’s date (April 1 0 -1 5 for southern Lehigh Valley, May 1 0 -1 5 for northern areas) for the appropriate starting time.
Seasonal
Test soil for new beds, Retest soil in poorly performing areas or those that haven’t been tested in the last 3 -5 years.
As plants held indoors start to show new growth, move them into brighter light and start regular watering.
Cut back ornamental grasses. Divide when you see new green growth.
Prune and divide perennials that bloom in late summer or fall.
Examine trees and shrubs. Note damaged limbs and candidates for winter pruning.
Please check proper pruning information for each plant and prune as needed and recommended.
Take cuttings of African violets and geraniums.
Check for heaved plants, particularly when soil temperatures are fluctuating between freezing and thawing.
Check germination rate for all stored seeds and replace those that perform badly with fresh seed this year.
Get seeds for plants you intend to grow from seed.
Keep amaryllis greens warm and watered in a sunny area if you plan on keeping them until next year.
Lawn
Take a break.
Chores
Use a humidifier, humidity trays or misting to increase the humidity around your houseplants.
Mark off beds, new plantings, plants that are late to break dormancy in the spring and delicate plants. Stay off them when\dealing with snow removal.
Top dress beds with compost or manure and till in when soil is workable
Water any new plantings anytime the ground isn’t frozen and we experience a week with less than an inch of rain.
Plan for spring. Fix damaged screens and garden hoses. Note damaged caulking around doors and windows.
Provide deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents.
Clean and fill bird feeders regularly. Clean up spilled seed and empty hulls. Dump, scrub and refill birdbaths at least once a week. Use a heater to provide water during freezing weather.
Clear gutters and direct rainwater runoff away from house foundations.
Tools, equipment, and supplies
Maintain winter equipment and replace or repair as needed. Note any that need repairs, service or replacement and plan ahead.
Check spring/summer equipment — repair or replace damaged or worn out tools.
Check power tools and mowers and send for service if needed.
Safety
Use pet, child and plant safe melting products if possible.
Store garden chemicals indoors away from pets and children. Discard outdated ones at local chemical collection events.
Photograph storm damage before clearing or repairing for insurance claims and file promptly.
Anytime you are outside and the temperatures are about 5 0 °F or warmer watch for tick bites.
Use an insect repellent containing Deet on the skin.
Apply a permethrin product to clothing.
Wear light-colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long pants when working in the garden.