The Morning Call

Hunger and obesity are actually the same problem throughout the US

- By Faye Flam

Scientific understand­ing is challengin­g the convention­al wisdom about hunger — now framing it as a scourge that afflicts not only people who get too few calories, but also those who consume mostly sugar and refined starch. People eating the wrong kind of diet can suffer from both hunger and obesity.

This more scientific­ally accurate view couldn’t come at a better time. Obesity affects about 40% of the U.S. population, almost one in four Americans had trouble affording food in 2021, and the price of food has risen more than 11% since this time last year.

So nutrition experts applauded last week’s White House Conference on Hunger, Nutrition and Health, since the discussion steered away from helping people get enough calories and focused on getting people enough real food. That’s also the focus behind a multi-billion dollar Joe Biden administra­tion initiative to end hunger in America by 2030.

The idea that the kind of food matters more than the number of calories consumed started as a heretical minority view but has gradually become mainstream. The old thinking that all calories are alike and obesity was caused by lack of willpower couldn’t explain why poverty, food deserts and obesity have been concentrat­ed in the same communitie­s.

But if this new scientific view is correct, it means hunger has actually contribute­d to the dramatic rise in obesity over the last 30 years — a 70% increase in adults, and an 85% rise in children.

Scientists still disagree over exactly what constitute­s the best human diet — clashing over whether people should eat a higher proportion of fat or carbohydra­tes. But emerging from the fray is some agreement about the kind of diet that’s harmful to human health. Unfortunat­ely, it includes the food that’s cheapest, most convenient, most available in poor areas, and most heavily marketed — foods and drinks that are high in sugar or corn syrup, and starchy foods such as white bread, chips and fries.

David Ludwig, an endocrinol­ogist at Harvard School of Public Health and Boston Children’s Hospital, is lead author of a new paper that explains how hunger and obesity might be directly connected. It’s all based on the hormone insulin.

The paper, published in the European Journal of Clinical Nutrition, details the way different forms of carbohydra­tes act in the body. In the form of fruits, vegetables, beans or some whole grains, they are absorbed slowly because of the fibrous plant material surroundin­g the carbohydra­tes, but in white bread or sugary cereal or soda they’re absorbed fast and generate spikes of insulin. That causes people to feel hungrier and put on weight.

If that idea is right, it calls for a very different solution to America’s hunger and obesity problems than the convention­al view that people gain weight because they lack self-control and eat too much.

It wouldn’t be the first time our understand­ing of obesity got a major overhaul. Older convention­al wisdom also held that dietary fat was the cause of obesity and that people should steer toward a higher carbohydra­te diet. That may have made people sicker and heavier.

“How long do you stick with a paradigm that’s based ultimately on eat less and move more, in one form or another, when it’s not working?” Ludwig asked.

It’s time to retire the old trope that for most of human evolution our species struggled for every calorie and caused us to be wired to be constantly hungry. In that narrative, only those with the most willpower and self-discipline stay thin. The narrative seems obvious the way it must have seemed obvious for a long time that the Earth was the center of the universe.

It’s more likely that prehistori­c people ate the right kinds of food — what humans are well-adapted to eat to be strong, healthy and energetic. That includes meat, fish, dairy, fruit, vegetables and, after farming was invented, whole grains.

There can be a lot of variety in a healthy diet: Ludwig points out that traditiona­l cultures from the Inuit to Laplanders to Plains Indians ate diets high in animal fat during much of the year, while other cultures thrive on mostly plants. What nobody seems to thrive on is sugar, white flour, soda and fries. In his experience, people choose the wrong foods for economic reasons.

Humans are diverse in our shapes and sizes — we don’t all have to be skinny to be healthy, and some obese people may be suffering from hunger. Can a government initiative really end hunger by 2030? The Biden administra­tion might need more help from Congress for such an ambitious goal, but any effort that starts with a science-based approach will help save and improve many lives.

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