Absolute best Thanksgiving pies
Here’s a truth about Thanksgiving: No matter how much gravy-bathed turkey, marshmallow-topped sweet potato casserole and mounds of stuffing one may devour, when dessert time rolls around, there’s always room for pie.
Pie had been a constant on Thanksgiving tables even before Abraham Lincoln proclaimed the day a national holiday in 1863. Pumpkin was the first variety to be associated with the feast, soon joined by apple and pecan. The three work perfectly together — creamy, smooth pumpkin, juicy apple and crunchy, candylike pecan — each adding a distinct allure. In a perfect world, my Thanksgiving dessert plate would hold wedges of them all, topped with whipped cream and devoured in alternating bites until the last buttery flakes of crust were gone.
Skip the actual pumpkin
Have you ever gone to the trouble of slicing, seeding, peeling, cooking and pureeing the flesh of a big orange pumpkin to make a pie — only to conclude that, after all that work, it’s not as good as if you’d used the pulp from the can?
The reason is a dirty little secret in the canned goods aisle: The puree in Libby’s, one of the leading supermarket brands, isn’t made from big orange pumpkins; it’s made from a variety of squash called Dickinson.
All of this means that everything you’ve heard about canned pumpkin being better than homemade puree isn’t exactly true. Yes, canned pumpkin is better than homemade pureed field pumpkins. But homemade pureed winter squash is delicious and a whole lot better than anything in a can — sweeter, brighter and fresher. It’s also a snap to make, especially if you buy a container of peeled, cubed butternut squash.
To get the most flavor, I roast my squash cubes rather than steam or boil them. In the oven’s high heat, the cubes condense and turn golden, and caramelize at their edges. A sprinkling of sugar and a drizzle of heavy cream aids the cause.
Precooking apples does wonders
Most apple pie recipes call for raw sliced apples. But once I started precooking, I became a convert, for two reasons.
Raw apples release their liquid into the pie crust as they bake, which steams and pools, making it harder to get a crisp crust, no matter how many vents you cut into the top or how much thickener you add. Raw apple slices also collapse as they bake, creating a gap between the sunken filling and the mounded top of the crust.
Precooking the apple slices helps stabilize them, so they don’t dissolve into a saucy heap. You end up with glossy, perfectly cooked apples sandwiched in a crunchy, buttery crust.
To get a supple and consistent texture in the filling, use only one kind of apple. You may lose some nuance in flavor, but you gain big in mouthfeel.
Pecan pie: More nuts, less goo
The problem with most pecan pie recipes is their toothacheinducing level of sweetness.
This recipe is different. Instead of corn syrup, I use a combination of maple syrup and honey, which makes the mixture less cloying while adding complex earthy and floral notes. Simmering the maple syrup for a few minutes helps concentrate its flavor.
I made another tweak, too. Most pecan pie recipes contain melted butter. But, in my mind, in every pot of melted butter, there’s brown butter waiting to happen. To make it, just continue to heat the melted butter for a few extra minutes until the milk solids fall to the bottom of the pan and caramelize, turning golden brown.
And finally, the more nuts you can fit into your pie pan, covered with the least amount of goo to hold them in place, the better the final pie.
MAPLE-HONEY PECAN PIE
Makes: 8 servings
Total time: 1 ½ hours, plus cooling All-purpose flour, for rolling out the dough Dough for a 9-inch single crust pie
½ cup unsalted butter
¼ cup maple syrup
¼ cup honey
½ cup light brown sugar
½ cup maple sugar or use more light brown sugar
3 large eggs, at room temperature 1 tablespoon bourbon (optional)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
1 ½ cups pecan halves
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon (optional)
1. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 12-inch circle and transfer to a 9-inch metal pie plate. Fold over any excess dough, crimping the edges. Transfer crust to the freezer for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.
2. When ready to bake, place a rimmed baking sheet on the middle oven rack and heat oven to 425 degrees.
3. Heat a small saucepan and melt butter over medium heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the foam subsides, the milk solids turn golden brown and the butter smells nutty and toasty, about 5 minutes. Add maple syrup to pan and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens and reduces slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk honey into the warm syrup mixture. Let cool at least 10 minutes.
4. While the syrup mixture cools, combine sugars, eggs, bourbon (if using), vanilla and salt in a large mixing bowl. Gradually pour syrup mixture into the egg mixture, whisking constantly, then use a rubber spatula to scrape in all the brown bits at the bottom of the pot.
5. Remove pie crust from freezer and place pecans along the bottom of the crust. Carefully pour the filling over the pecans. Place pie plate on the hot sheet pan and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and continue to bake for another 35 to 45 minutes, until the center of the pie has puffed up and turned golden brown.
6. Transfer pie to a wire cooling rack, sprinkle with flaky sea salt, if you like, and allow to cool for at least 2 hours before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature. Note: If using a glass pie plate, line chilled crust with foil or parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 15 minutes at 400 degrees; remove foil and weights and bake until pale golden, 5 minutes more. Cool on rack until needed.