The Oklahoman

GOOD MEMORIES OF CAFETERIAS ABOUND

- BY DAVE CATHEY Food Editor dcathey@oklahoman.com

In the wake of last week’s shuttering of Boulevard Cafeteria, we published a retrospect­ive Sunday on Oklahoma City’s historic cafeterias. A number of you responded with memories to share from the grand old eateries.

As I’ve mentioned several times, I am working on a book about the historic restaurant­s of Oklahoma City, and the stories I’ve written so far have worked as a preview.

When the book comes out, I will have even more details about the cafeterias, and similar accounts of places like Beverly’s, Cattlemen’s, The Haunted House Restaurant, Glen’s Hik’ry Inn, The Dolores Restaurant, the classic drive-ins, The Cellar, Jamil’s, Kaiser’s, Nicolosi’s Ranch House, Ned’s Steakhouse, Jack Sussy’s, The Golden Pheasant and El Charrito. The book will be available by next summer if all goes as planned.

For me, the end of The Boulevard means the end of my Chess Pie habit. Probably a good thing for my health, but the thought that Chess Pie isn’t out there when I absolutely need it is depressing. So, rest assured, I will track down a Chess Pie recipe to bring balance back to my universe, and when I find

one worthy of calling it kin to The Boulevard’s, I will share it. Meanwhile, here’s what you all had to share about our local cafeteria history. Keep on sending those memories, and I will find a way to share them.

“Growing up in Oklahoma City, who didn’t go out to eat in a cafeteria? I remember going to all of them, but more often, we’d go to Lady Classen, many times with my grandparen­ts. Besides the great food, and the sound of that xylophone calling you, it was the winding red brick wall that I remember the most. Too small to see over the top, I would beg to sit on top of it, and scoot down towards the serving line. Then, as I grew taller, I would strain to stand on my tip toes to see over that wall. Finally, I had ‘grown up,’ tall enough to see above that wall, looking out at the vast number of tables, the people, the servers, and best of all, the food and desserts that awaited you at the food line.

“Thanks for the great article and memories of what eating out as a family was all about.”

— Jarrette Mankin, Oklahoma City

“When I was young boy growing up in El Reno in the ’50s, after Sunday church, my mother would often take me to O’Mealey’s in Oklahoma City for lunch. We’d go to the one on NW 23rd, and I loved their chicken pot pie and vanilla custard. Later, they had one a bit closer for us on N May at about 32nd, and we’d go there. You enjoyed all the choices and seeing your food and what it looked like before you were served.

“Even now sometimes my wife and I will drive to the last Luby’s on N May Avenue. It was a great concept for the times.”

— Jack Dill, Blanchard

“I grew up in the ’40s. My mother was a stay-at-home mother, I’m sure there wasn’t a lot of money, we were a one-car family — if we were considered poor, we didn’t know it. We were rich in so many ways. One of those ways is the memory of my mother and I occasional­ly going over to her mother’s house at 32nd and Classen. From there, Mother and I boarded the streetcar and rode downtown to (probably) just window shop. AND go to Anna Maude’s for lunch. I don’t remember how frequently we went downtown; I just remember that when we did, our lunch spot never varied. We went to Anna Maude’s, waited in what seemed an interminab­ly long line, then got to the good stuff. My ‘menu’ never changed. I don’t remember what Mother had, but I ALWAYS had mashed potatoes, spinach (the best!) and rhubarb pie.

“This really is the end of my story. And maybe it’s more a memory of time I spent with my mother than an actual cafeteria-story, but Anna Maude’s played a huge part in this recollecti­on. And NO ONE could ever approach the deliciousn­ess of the potatoes, spinach and pie!

“Thank you for going on this trip with me.”

— Linda St. Onge, Yukon

“The liver and onions (at The Boulevard), egg custard pie, were the best I have had.”

— Constance Houston, Jones

“My grandson, Porter, will be devastated. The Boulevard has always been his pick for birthday lunch. So many memories.”

— Shanon Eaton, El Reno

“Anna Maude, Queen Ann and Lady Classen were all part of Sunday after church at Crown Heights as a boy.”

— Jeff Wilson

“The Boulevard’s food was so good. Lots of memories from my old days working downtown. I would run over there and get a ground round with baked potato and pea salad. My favorite lunch there.”

— Debi Castro, Norman

“Loved the Boulevard Cafeteria and went there often after Anna Maude’s and Val Gene’s closed!”

— Nancy Robert Stirman, Perry

“I remember going to the Britling Cafeteria, located at 2213 West 1st Street (now Park Ave.). I understand it opened in 1932 (one year before I was born) and probably operated until the late ’50s or early ’60s. The building it was in was destroyed during the urban renewal effort. I remember it had a balcony as part of the seating arrangemen­t.”

— Don Baxter, Oklahoma City

Editor’s note: Don’s memory is good. The Britling was part of a chain out of Memphis,

Tenn., that came to Oklahoma City and operated many years in downtown. Stocking stuffers

•Provision Kitchen in Nichols Hills Plaza switched menus Tuesday, saying goodbye to fall and hello to winter.

Watch video of chef Beth Lyon describing the changes on NewsOK.com.

•Practicall­y next door to Provision Kitchen is the new POPS, which has always been a great place to find gifts for the soda-lover on your list. But the new POPS also has a tidy little confection collection that would appeal to a broad audience of sweet-toothed giftees. We’ve also got video from there on NewsOK.com.

•Chef Alain Buthion of La Baguette Bistro, 7408 N May Ave., is poised to dazzle diners with a traditiona­l French Christmas dinner Tuesday night. The five-course dinner with five wine-pairings costs $125. For reservatio­ns, call 840-3047.

•Gigglez Bar & Grill, 1016 N Walker Ave., has opened in Midtown, taking the spot of

Saturn Grill. Chef Vuong Nguyen of Bonjour, and previously of Guernsey Park, is consulting on the menu for the bar and grill side. The concept also includes a comedy club. For more details, go to gigglezokc. com.

•For those of you looking for places to dine out on Christmas, I’ve received a few tidbits. As usual, the major hotel restaurant­s will offer service, and Luby’s Cafeteria also will be open. If you’re looking for something a little more festive and formal, J. Bruner’s at The Haunted

House will be serving dinner starting at 3 p.m. (Christmas Eve service starts at 5.) For reservatio­ns, call 478-1417.

•Have you got a restaurant that will be open on Christmas? Shoot the info to dcathey@oklahoman.com.

Whiskey Cake sets Sunday Supper

Whiskey Cake Kitchen & Bar, 1845 Northwest Expressway, will serve Sunday Supper starting Sunday. The threecours­e, farm-to-fork family-style meal includes Farmhouse Salad, Rotisserie Farm Bird, an order of either carrot and rutabaga mash, garlicky green beans, or mac n’ cheese with a basket of white cheddar and jalapeno biscuits. For dessert, Whiskey Cake with bourbon anglaise, candied pecans and house-whipped cream. Cost is $65. For more informatio­n, go online to whiskey-cake.com.

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[PHOTO BY DAVE ?? Boulevard Cafeteria in Midtown closed its doors after Friday’s lunch service, ending a 68-year run.
CATHEY, THE OKLAHOMAN] [PHOTO BY DAVE Boulevard Cafeteria in Midtown closed its doors after Friday’s lunch service, ending a 68-year run.
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