Beef, it’s what for summer!
For our last "Open Flame" before summer vacation, chefs from Vast and Cattlemen's Steakhouse joined me at American Propane, 7401 N Broadway Extension, for a celebration of beef.
When I heard the Oklahoma Beef Council wanted to sponsor an "Open Flame" event, the first place I thought of was Cattlemen's Steakhouse.
That's because co-owner David Egan is like a walking beef encyclopedia. Egan was happy to join us, but brought along his
kitchen ace Joe Woods to do the heavy lifting.
Egan talked to the fullhouse in the cabana about his favorite summer beef cut,
"Nothing screams summer like a full cut of top sirloin steak," Egan said. "The full cut of top sirloin encompasses three separate muscles. The fat and seams that connect these muscles deliver a burst of summer flavor over a hot charcoal grill."
Egan said he prefers USDA Prime or Choice cuts.
"Your butcher can give you a full cut of top sirloin with ¼-inch fat trim."
He also advises 21 days of aging.
For the evening, he and chief grill-jockey and kitchen manager Joe Woods prepared top sirloin in three distinct preparations:
1. Hickory slow smoke, then hot charcoal. Smoke at 200 F for about 1 hour. Let meat rest for an hour. Stoke charcoal until coals burn down to amber glow (not grey ashes). Finish steaks over hot charcoal until desired doneness. Finish with coarse, freshly ground black pepper and sea salt.
2. Country Pan Sear: Choose a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet (not ribbed). A good sear gives a unique crust to this flavorful steak. Let the meat set out until it reaches room temperature. In the meantime, superheat a cast-iron skillet until it has an ashen white surface. DO NOT ADD OIL. Generously season steak on both sides with your favorite steak seasoning. (Salt, black pepper, granulated garlic, onion powder, etc.) Slap steak firmly on skillet and do not move until sear is created, 3 to 4 minutes. Use metal spatula to loosen and flip the steak. Repeat sear, being careful not to overcook. Remove from pan; let rest for 5-10 minutes. Slice and serve.
3. Classic Steakhouse method: This requires an infrared broiler or grill (like several models at American Propane) which cooks from top down. If you can find this, it can master a steak just like all the big-time New York City steakhouses. Let meat reach room temperature, season well, and then cook steak under hot (1600 degrees!) broiler. This requires attentive supervision. This method will create a sear which provides that wonderful “steakhouse” crust. Be careful not to overcook.
Egan used some pickled onions I'd made for a garnish, but he said to fill out a summer steak-out serve your beef with fresh corn on the cob, grilled zucchini, grape tomatoes and green onions.
Chef Kevin Lee joined us from his perch high atop the Devon Tower that evening. The newly minted executive chef of the city's tallest and most opulent restaurant served a recipe hinting at his upcoming project, Gogi Go, which will open in Midtown this fall.
For the summer cookout, he prepared bulgogi skewers, combining a Korean classic with the skills he's honed since graduating from The Coach House Apprenticeship Program a few years ago.
Lee has starred at "Open Flame" since it began, and he was a sushi chef operating a sublime burger joint in Robinson Renaissance called Burger Rush.
It's amazing to witness, but more importantly taste, the progress he's made. His dish delivers the kind of big flavors sure to make your grill the one where hungry neighbors gather.
With two heavy-hitters like that on hand, I made a smoked hangar steak salad.
Hangar is an underappreciated cut ideal for grilling and delicious enough to be served cold as well as hot off the grill. For my salad, I wanted the beef to be room temperature so it wouldn't wilt the bibb lettuce we were using. For the dressing, I made a vinaigrette out of the King Snake Salsa (my attempt at the Coral Snake Salsa of Iguana Mexican Grill).
This recipe is ideal for steak made the night before.
As I mentioned, "Open Flame" will take the rest of the summer off and return for a private event in September. Plans are underway for an October event in which the Beef and Pork councils will supply the inspiration for a team cooking competition. Details and ticket information for that feast will be released soon.