Pure indulgence
Magic, mountains and tasty morsels in Lake Tahoe
Like the opening of a theater curtain, misty rain set the scene to unveil the Nevada side of majestic (and state-dividing) Lake Tahoe. The scent of damp pine needles permeated the clean, crisp air that led me through regal redwoods and noble pine trees to the billion-dollar view at the Edgewood resort. This stage of seemingly endless lake was set against a hazy backdrop of mountains.
Tahoe’s extraordinary natural beauty is in juxtaposition with its storied past as a mecca for casino life. Legendary celebrities including Frank Sinatra and Marilyn Monroe joined equally legendary mobsters to sip martinis and cavort at roulette tables. In fact, although Tahoe’s elevation is 10,000 feet, it is suspected to be the home of numerous missing mobsters wearing cement shoes at the lake’s bottom.
The nearby Montbleu Hotel whispers of such secrets past, which I felt all around me as I dined on a red leather banquette behind a red velvet curtain at Ciera Steak & Chophouse. I imagined Frank and Marilyn here, especially when dessert arrived: a plate of chocolate-covered strawberries presented in a fog of dry ice. Magical. A few post-prandial rounds of roulette later, I became convinced I was channeling the Rat Pack.
Back at Edgewood, the cacophony of casino life disappears. This property is all about golfing (Tiger Woods is a fan) in a serene setting with fresh mountain air, and marveling at sunset views over the lake. At The Edgewood Restaurant, my senses were heightened by French martinis and fabulous Sonoma pinot noir. It was a challenge to concentrate on my scallops over cauliflower puree as the burst of golden sunset all but dominated my attention. Once the sun went down, I was better able to focus on my sea bass in lobster bisque, with a hash mixed with giant shrimp, and my companion’s halibut in citrus-ponzu sauce and grilled Little Gem lettuce.
Off-resort, breakfast at the iconic greasy spoon Red Hut Café introduced me to bacon and pecan waffles. I was happy to burn off the calories by taking a memorable Jet Ski ride on the lake. I rented mine at the Zephyr Cove Resort. Later, at the no-frills Zephyr Cove Restaurant, I bit into a spicy, crispy salmon sandwich on a bun that rivaled the recommended chocolate milkshake.
Yes, dessert with my sandwich was quite the indulgence, but isn’t that what resort vacations are all about?