Peruvian flavors fly high at Zambrano’s in Edmond
EDMOND — Peruvian food appears to be matriculating through the 405 diningscape again with the opening of Zambrano’s Peruvian Restaurant.
Featuring the authentic cuisine of chef Samara Zambrano, the namesake restaurant opened about a month ago. Formerly the owner/operator of the Naylamp restaurant in Warr Acres, Zambrano and her brother Niel were also part of previous Peruvian eateries El Pollon and Inca Trail.
Zambrano’s, 308 W. Edmond Road, is in a small strip and features traditional favorites including papas a la huancaina, ceviche, and lomo saltado. An intimate full-service dining room, the small cafe has a cocktail bar featuring Peru’s favorite spirit Pisco.
Seafood lovers will be drawn to Samara’s menu, which includes traditional fresh presentations along with a Peruvian play on paella, arroz con mariscos. Jalea de mariscos is a mix of fried seafood, including calamari and shrimp, with salsa criolla. Parihuela is a traditional Peruvian seafood stew. Charitos a la chalaca includes cooked mussels marinated in lime and served with diced red onions and tomatoes.
But it’s not all about fish. Peru is the birthplace of tubers galore. Papas a la huancaina is a simple cooked potato smothered in eye-rolling aji amarillo cream sauce with olives and hardboiled egg slices. Fried yucca gets the same treatment in yuca a la huancaina
Heartier appetites will go for lomo saltado or bisteck a lo pobre. Lomo is a stir-fry of beef with onions, tomatoes, chiles and served with french fries and rice. Yes, french fries AND rice. When you’re the birthplace of potatoes, no one complains about doubling up on starches. Bisteck a lo pobre is a marinated fried steak topped with fried eggs served with rice, plantain, yucca, white rice, tomatoes and cucumbers.
Arroz con pollo and tacu tacu are also on the menu. The first is a popular dish throughout Central and South America, but rarely ever served the same way. At Zambrano’s, two chicken legs are served with signature green rice and a side of papas a la huancaina. Tacu tacu is described as an Afro-Peruvian dish. Beans and rice make a pancake, which is the platform for a thinsliced steak, fried plantains, and avocado before they’re all topped with fried egg.
On my first trip, I went with the ceviche mixto and was not disappointed. Fresh seafood is “cooked” in lime juice and served with thin-sliced red onion, maiz mote (hominy), and the delightful toasted corn puffs called cancha, which is what Corn Nuts wish they could be.
Bright, fresh, fish crunchy highlights is a delicious and nutritious way to navigate a meal.
Samara will eventually add pollo a la brasa to the menu. With any luck, papas rellenos will make their return.
Culinary adventurers will want to try a glass of Chicha Morada, which is made of boiled purple corn with pineapple and sugar. Less adventurous types will swoon over a glass of Inca Cola, which would make a fantastic bubblegum flavor.
Zambrano’s is open daily at 11 a.m., closing at 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 8 p.m. on Sunday and 9 p.m. the rest of the week.
Good to see ceviche options opening up in time for spring and summer. The original Naylamp still operates on SW 44 Street, serving traditional Peruvian cuisine. When Pachinko opens, it will feature a fusion of sushi and ceviche from chef Gustavo Risi.