Make magic and memories with Southern redeye gravy

One quick whiff is all it takes sometimes to transport you back to another time and table. A pan of chicken spaghetti takes me to my childhood home after church on Sunday. Baking bread takes me back to college where I was determined to master it. And then there’s gravy.

I’m not talking about just any gravy, although I haven’t found one I don’t enjoy. The culinary transportation vehicle I’m referencing is redeye gravy. In one instant, I am sitting at the finest table that I ever graced – the breakfast table of my grandmother at her house in Ecru, Mississippi. I experienced so much magic there, and this simple yet divine gravy is nothing short of a masterpiece.

Southern to its very core, redeye gravy has been around as long as this area of America. Unknown as to the exact origin, rumors and folklore abound. My favorite tale is that Andrew Jackson’s cook had been sipping the corn whiskey a bit much and when he served this particular “sauce” his eyes were as red as the gravy.

Many other names can be found, from poor man’s gravy to bottom sop but redeye (one word not two!) is most recognizable. So what are the ingredients that make up this biscuit topping? You have to begin with ham. Purists like myself will tell you it has to be country ham rather than city ham. The salt in country ham keeps the ingredients to a minimum.

After ham slices are fried in a skillet, the drippings become the base as they do with any gravy. Then equal amounts of water and hot coffee are added to the hot skillet. This mixture is reduced slightly but not thickened like other gravies. It is served from a pitcher onto split biscuits along with pieces of that fried ham. Yum!

IMAGES The classic preparation for redeye gravy is to pan-fry thin slices of ham in bacon fat, lard or butter, then deglaze the pan with strong black coffee. GETTY