The Oneida Daily Dispatch (Oneida, NY)

DIY cleaning

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These days, there’s a pricey product available to clean just about anything. But why spend the money when you can make your own homemade products that perform just as well, from ingredient­s you may already have in your cupboards and pantry? I’m talking cheaper, faster and, quite possibly, better! DEARMARY>> What is the best, most effective way to clean a steam iron? — Bev DEARBEV>> You need to regularly clean both the inside and the soleplate of your steam iron to keep it in tip-top condition. Before you proceed with my cleaning suggestion­s, read the manual that came with the iron to make sure there are no instructio­ns or cautions that might pre- clude the following.

Inside: To remove buildup from the inside of the iron (which, over time, can really clog things up), pour equal amounts of white vinegar and water into the iron’s water chamber, up to the maximum fill line. Turn the iron on at the “steam” setting and iron a soft clean cloth to clean out the steam ports.

Leave the iron on in an upright position for 10 minutes or so. Unplug it and take it to the sink. Shake it to loosen the mineral buildup inside and then turn it upside down over the sink, allowing the vinegar and water to pour out. You are likely to see flakes and chunks of gunk come out with the liquid. Repeat this process until only clear liquid comes out of the iron into the sink.

Rinse with clear water several times to remove all traces of vinegar.

Soleplate: There are numerous ways to clean the soleplate and remove the scorched ugly brown buildup of stains and melted-on fabric, but most are pretty messy.

Applying a paste made of hydrogen peroxide and baking soda then vigorously scrubbing the surface with a rag will do the trick, but you’ll be left with a wet soggy mess and steam holes that are hopelessly clogged with the paste. I’ve been there, done that and found it to be very frustratin­g.

My favorite way to clean the bottom of the iron is with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (or the generic melamine version, which is cheaper in bulk). Make sure the Magic Eraser is wet; then rub the soleplate until it comes clean. No mess, no residue and no clogged steam holes. It really is like magic. DEARMARY>> What is the best way to clean hard-water stains from my granite countertop­s, especially around the sink? — Sheila DEARSHEILA>> Granite is tricky, that’s for sure. But once you understand a few things, you’ll have no trouble keeping your countertop­s beautifull­y shiny and free of streaks and water stains.

The enemy of granite is anything acidic. That eliminates any cleaning products that contain vinegar or lemon juice. Acid can permanentl­y “etch” granite over time.

Granite countertop­s, because they must be sealed (and resealed annually with a good sealant available at any home improvemen­t store or online), should not be cleaned with cleaners that contain ammonia (such as Windex). Ammonia strips away the sealant.

You already know that water is not great for granite because it can leave marks and a buildup of minerals around the sink.

So what’s left? Alcohol. You can buy commercial granite cleaners that contain some type of alcohol and a lot of water, or you can make your own granite cleaner for just pennies.

Granite cleaner: Pour ¼ cup of rubbing alcohol (vodka or gin are good substitute­s) into a 16-ounce spray bottle. Add three drops of blue Dawn dishwashin­g liquid and five drops of essential oil (optional, but makes it smell great). Add enough water to fill the bottle. Label and keep out of reach of children. Shake to mix. From now on, use this solution to keep your countertop­s beautifull­y clean and shiny without wrecking the sealant or causing any harm to the granite.

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